Installing the Benjamin Supersear

Monday, March 2, 2009

If there is one complaint that can be made about the modern crop of Benjamin and Sheridan multi-stroke pneumatic rifles (such as the Benjamin 392 and 397 and the Sheridan CB9 and C9), it’s that the trigger in these air rifles is mediocre. The pull is heavy, and there is a lot of creep to the trigger.

For example, my Sheridan C9 measured right around 6 to 6-1/4 lbs of pull, and there is a lot of movement between where the second stage of the trigger engages and the shot is finally triggered.

If you want a better trigger quickly and easily, buy a Benjamin SuperSear and install it yourself. What follows is an account of how I installed the SuperSear in my C9.

First, look underneath the forestock just ahead of the trigger guard. You’ll see a Philips head screw recessed into the forestock. Using a Philips screwdriver of appropriate size, remove this screw by turning it counterclockwise. With this screw removed, you can now slide off the buttstock. (Two notes: [1] You might want to open the pumping arm slightly to make it easier. [2] Every time you remove a screw or small part, put it in a safe place like a small plastic dish so it won’t wander away.)

You will now have an assembly that looks like the picture below.

Next, remove the two Philips screws that are on either side of the air tube just above the trigger assembly. This will allow you to remove the trigger assembly, resulting in an assembly that looks like the one below. (Note the spring and black steel spring guide that sticks out of the air tube; you can put these in a safe place with the other small parts.)

Next, remove the two screws that hold the cover on the trigger assembly, remove the cover, and you’ll be able to see what’s inside:

Notice the arrangement of the components inside the trigger assembly: the trigger (with a coiled spring to the left of it), the sear (at the top right of the assembly, with the wire spring hooked into it), and the safety (sticking through a hole in the trigger guard, with the wire spring pressing against it). Notice that there is a pin that goes through a hole in the trigger and goes into sockets on each side of the trigger case. The sear also rides on a pin that fits into sockets on each side of the trigger case. Also notice that there is a tab on the trigger that presses on the “tongue” of the trigger sear when the trigger is pulled.

Finally, notice the trigger case post which is just below the tab on the trigger. Because the SuperSear has a longer “tongue,” you will need to grind, file, or drill the trigger case post so that the SuperSear can operate without interference. The picture below shows the trigger case with everything removed, clamped in a vice, ready for grinding down the trigger case post.

The next picture shows the post ground down (I used a Dremel mototool and a small grinding wheel – don’t forget your eye protection) so that it is level with the trigger pin socket. A vital step in the process that follows the metalwork on the post is cleanup of the abrasive debris that will have been produced (e.g., metal chips and grinding wheel grit) before reassembly. Forgetting to do this will do no good for either the feel or longevity of your new trigger. A blast of compressed air (if available) can be used to blow the muck out, or a quick rinse with soapy water works too. Then dry and relubricate.

The next picture shows the trigger, SuperSear, wire spring, and safety reinstalled. All that remains is to reinstall the coil spring between the trigger and the two cast tabs and put the cover back on the trigger case. The trigger assembly slides back into the air tube (don’t forget to reinstall the spring assembly in the correct orientation) and put the two screws back in place. Finally, slip the buttstock on and put the screw back in place. You’re done!

To optimize my SuperSear Installation, I polished the engagement surface of the sear (indicated by the arrow in the picture below) with Arkansas stones that I use for sharpening knives and chisels. I started with a fairly rough stone, moved to a medium stone, and then a smooth stone. I finished the polishing with some emery cloth. Finally, I sprayed a drop of silicone lubricant on my fingertip and wiped it on the working edge of the sear.

So how does it work? Quite well, thank you. What once had been a creepy 6+ lb. trigger has been transformed into a crisp two-stage trigger that lets off at an average of 3 lb 11 oz. That’s significant improvement and results in an air rifle that is a lot more predictable and more fun to shoot.


  1. Rich says:

    My trigger assembly on my sheridan cb9 doesn’t look anything like yours. It doesn’t have the housing yours does. Is yours a very early model. I think i bought miine in the early -mid 90’s. Do you know of another trigger fix for sheridans. I love the rifle but the trigger is terrible.

    1. Jock Elliott says:


      Mine is a modern production model. Some of the Sheridan tuners may be able to improve the trigger on your gun.

  2. Austin says:

    What is the purpose of the post that is filed down, and if needed can the old sear be put back in the assembly? Thanks

    1. Jock Elliott says:


      According to the creator of the Benjamin Supersear, the post that is filed down limits the overtravel motion of the trigger blade, but is unnecessary to proper trigger operation either with the SuperSear or the stock sear. If necessary, the old sear can be put back in the assembly.

      1. Austin says:

        Thanks! I am now seriously considering the super sear! I was wondering if I could also get your opinion on the number of pumps that I should use in my silver streak(stock) while hunting squirrels. I shot one this season with 5 pumps and am almost certain that I hit the heart/lung area. When I hit him, he humped up and ran to a knole in the tree and died there, but I was not able to recover him. Another day i set out, this time trying only for a headshot, and hit one right behind the eye and dropped him on the spot. However, would you recomend using 8 pumps and going for the heart/lungs(certainly an easier shot) and if so is this going to strain my seals when hunting for a long period of time(2-3 hours). I was hoping on having this gun for a lifetime and the last thing I want is to ruin it. Thanks for your input,

      2. Jock Elliott says:


        8 pumps is not going to strain your seals — the gun was built for that and should be able to hold that pressure all day long with no damage. I’d go for the head shot. If your heart/lung shot is going through the squirrel at 5 pumps, you already have enough power.

  3. Austin says:

    By the way i am using 14.3 grain benjamin cylindrical pellets…

  4. Austin says:

    Thank you!

  5. Gabe says:

    If you have been putting off buying the Supersear because your not sure if its worth the $30, let me just say its worth it and then some. I’m very happy with it and I wish I would have bought it years ago.

  6. Paul Hawkins says:

    Great article, thanks. Do you sell the supersear?

  7. Wilfred Guillory says:

    Where do I get a Supersear for my 392 benji?

    1. Jock Elliott says:


      You can get one from Here’s a direct link to the product: Just scroll down.

  8. andre says:

    I just installed the Super Sear. The implementation was aluminum with steel pin insert. Trigger feels great and was also an opportune moment to lubricate the parts sliding against each other. So much better.

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