Out for one of the most popular game animals in North America.

As the leaves turn shades of amber and crimson, it signals my favorite time to be out in the woods: the beginning of the new squirrel hunting season! For many hunters, the pursuit of squirrel with an air rifle is more than a pastime—it’s a time-honored tradition and a test of patience, marksmanship, and fieldcraft. In this blog post we’ll talk about preparing for the new season, highlighting regulations, equipment, techniques and the challenges that come with this pursuit.

Squirrel seasons are typically established by state and provincial wildlife agencies to help manage healthy populations and protect the ecological balance. Most seasons begin in mid-September, I hunt in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Indiana mostly, and this timing aligns with the squirrels’ heightened activity as they gather food for winter. Hunters eagerly anticipate the release of the new season dates, which vary by location and can be affected by factors such as climate, population surveys, and conservation needs.

Hunting regulations exist to ensure ethical harvests and protect wildlife populations. Most regions require a small game hunting license, and some may have specific requirements for hunting with air rifles. Legal shooting hours, bag limits (often 5-10 squirrels per day), and regulations around equipment must be understood and followed. It is the responsibility of each hunter to consult local wildlife agency websites or handbooks for the most up-to-date information before heading afield.

The air rifle holds a special place in the tradition of squirrel hunting, as this is where many kids get their first experience of hunting. Airguns are well suited for this due to their quiet operation, inherent accuracy, optimal power for small game, which makes it the perfect tool for both newcomers and seasoned hunters. Compared to traditional firearms, air rifles create less disturbance, less carrying range, and I believe allow for a more immersive experience in nature and the potential for multiple shots in one outing.

When selecting an air rifle for squirrel hunting, several factors should be considered. With respect to caliber, .177 and .22 caliber are the most popular choices, with .22 historically preferred for the balance of effectiveness, cost and availability of guns and ammo this caliber offers. However, in more recent years .25 and even .30 have gained traction for their superior knockdown power. On one hand this is more power than you will need, on the other it is still lower than a .22 rimfire which has been the most common firearm for small game hunting for generations.

The rule of thumb for power output is that the rifle must deliver enough energy (typically at least 12 foot-pounds) to ensure a clean, ethical shot. However, 12 fpe is the low end of the spectrum and has become a threshold because in countries such as the UK, this is the most powerful gun a citizen can have without a license. My preference is for guns in the 25 – 70 fpe range, I don’t think there is a downside to a more powerful gun, except maybe the ammo is slightly more expensive though we are still talking pennies per shot. I pay more attention to accuracy, precision is critical; a well-placed shot is necessary for a swift, humane harvest. I think that whatever range you intend to shoot, you and your gun can consistently print sub-inch groups.

Quality optics improve shot placement, especially at the small vital zones of a squirrel. There is no problem with shooting open sights if you can meet the sub-inch group requirement with them. My eyes aren’t as good now as when I was a teen, but even though my vision is still pretty good I like a scope to ensure a clean shot. I also like the improved visualization they offer in low light scenarios.

Successful squirrel hunting begins before the season opens. Pre-season scouting involves observing likely habitats: mature hardwood forests, oak and hickory stands, and brushy edges. Look for signs such as cut nut hulls, nests (dreys) in the treetops, and areas with heavy leaf litter. Early morning and late afternoon are typically the best times to spot squirrels as they forage and play.

If I’ve had time to scout an area, I’ll set up in a hidden area and wait for squirrels moving between den and food source in ambush. I often hunt in distant areas that are not practicel for me to scout in person, though I will use Google maps to look for hardwood, water sources, and fields to get an idea of where squirrels might be found, then still-hunt those areas. Once I find good areas, I mark them on onX for future use.

A well-prepared hunter carries more than just an air rifle. It may seem like overkill, but I will often wear camouflage clothing appropriate for the season. I’ll often wear a camo shirt or vest, gloves, hat and a facemask, and think that a facemask and gloves are absolutely necessary at the very least. I also carry mid-power binoculars for spotting squirrels at a distance, in the shadows, or in dense vegetation. A small backpack with water, snacks, and field dressing supplies (with knife), a First-aid kit and insect repellent is also a good idea. In the past I would carry a game bag or wear a vest to carry the squirrels I shot, but this can get really messy, really fast. My preference these days is a game stringer such as those used by bird hunters, and hang it from my pack.

The foundation of all hunting seasons is ethical behavior—respect for the quarry, the land, and other outdoor enthusiasts. Ethical squirrel hunting involves taking only legal, safe, and ethical shots, harvesting within bag limits, recovering all game and using it responsibly (squirrel meat is lean and flavorful, perfect for stews and roasts), and leave no trace—packing out all litter and respecting private property boundaries. Not only are these ethical guidelines, but codified into law in many jurisdictions.

Tips I would suggest to new hunters are to learn the habits and calls of both gray and fox squirrels, and also Alberts squirrels if you are lucky enough to live in their range, to locate them more effectively. Move slowly and sit quietly; patience often brings the best rewards. This is also a good time to glass the area with those binoculars, as you will often spot squirrels otherwise missed. Practice marksmanship before the season to ensure clean, humane kills, and remember to shoot from the field positions and rests (shooting sticks, bipods, etc) you intend to use in the field. Just a reminder that there are not many benchrests in the woods to shoot game from. Field dress squirrels promptly to preserve the quality of the meat.

Squirrel hunting isn’t only about the pursuit; it’s also about enjoying the results. Across North America, classic recipes such as squirrel and dumplings, Brunswick stew, and fried squirrel have been a staple on tables for generations. Sharing wild game with family and friends strengthens bonds and continues the enduring traditions of the hunt.

The new season for hunting squirrel with an air rifle offers a chance to reconnect with nature, test one’s skills, and participate in one of the most enjoyable field sports to be found. By approaching each hunt with preparation, respect, and a well honed set of field skills, hunters ensure that this tradition remains sustainable for years to come. Whether you are a seasoned hunter or a newbie eager to learn, the changing seasons invite you to explore the woods, your favorite air rifle in hand, and discover the fun of squirrel hunting.

Many airgunners were taught from the beginning that only head shots were a viable option for hunting ethically. I think head shots are fine, but a well placed heart/lung shot offers many advantages as well.

For about as long as I’ve been hunting with air powered rifles, I have listened to the debate on shot placement. I grew up hunting with firearms and was taught to always take body shots on big game, never a head shot. When hunting small game with a rimfire, the conventional wisdom was that either head or body shots were OK, though headshots might result in less meat damage. As a matter of fact, there was a widely held belief that headshots were unacceptable on larger game, due to the possibility of inflicting a wound, such as a broken jaw, that could prevent a badly shot animal from eating.

As I started to hunt more with airguns and read the UK hunting literature and later follow the online discussions, I found a very strong preference for using headshots only, and an equally strong bias against the use of body shots. The most common reason offered in support of this position was that headshots are more humane, anchor an animal more quickly, and cause less meat damage.

My experience has been that either a properly placed headshot or body shot can be effective and efficient at producing clean kills, while poorly placed head or body shots are not. It is true that even with a perfectly placed body shot that penetrates the heart and/or lungs, an animal may run a short distance before dropping. On the other hand, while a headshot will frequently result in an animal dropping on the spot, it’s also not unusual for an animal to flop, kick, and roll around before giving up the ghost. I believe that to some extent the discussion of what is more humane or painless to the prey is a topic viewed through an emotional lens.

I don’t believe the few seconds between the impact of a shot and the actual death is significant, be it immediate or almost immediate. Especially in the context of how a prey animal usually dies, being taken down and eaten by a predator. That aside, I have seen deer double lunged by an arrow go back to grazing or even trying to mate, until they drop. This leads me to believe that the processing of pain is different, and that a body shot from a projectile that penetrates a vital organ does not place undue pain or stress on quarry. I think every hunter needs to work this out for themselves and decide their own rules of engagement. My view is that either headshot or body shots are acceptable, but regardless of which placement I use the objective is to make it as close to perfect as possible.

What does this mean? A head shot is a misleading term that implies the goal is to simply hit the head, but in reality, it is to place the pellet center of mass in the brain. Conversely a body shot has one or more of the following objectives: pierce the heart, pierce the lungs, and possibly doing this while breaking down structure (shoulder or spine). The key to delivering the proper body shot is knowing the anatomy of your quarry, having the animal positioned so that the appropriate shot placement is achievable, and having the appropriate gun and projectile to facilitate the shot placement you’ve opted for.

One of the reasons I prefer more powerful .25 – .30 caliber rifles with heavier and/or larger projectiles for small game is that it presents more options to effectively place a shot. If I’m hunting with a 50 fpe .25 pcp rifle and there is a rabbit at 70 yards angled towards me, I am comfortable with a quartering body shot that will break a shoulder and penetrate both lungs and possibly the heart. In fact, my experience is that these types of shots are often immediately effective in anchoring the animal on the spot.

However, presented with the same opportunity while hunting one of my 14 fpe .22 rifles, I would not take the body shot doubting the guns’ ability to produce a clean and effective kill. Rather I’d hold off on until a head shot presented. So even as a firm believer in the use of body shots, my choice of this option would be situational.

So, now that I’ve explained my rational for the use of body shots, the rest of this article will focus on how I use them. I would also mention that the kill zone for a headshot and a body shot are approximately the same, about a 1” diameter target area on small game. What can make the body shot a more attractive option is that there is less movement. For instance, a turkey’s head is always in motion, jerking back and forth, up and down, twisting and moving side to side, while the body tends to remain more stationary and gives a bit more time for optimizing the shot.

As mentioned, the term “body shot” is misleading and a better label would be a heart/lung shot. There are several approaches to this shot placement, depending on the animal’s position in relation to the hunter, and shot selection also depends on the type of game you are hunting and other factors. For instance, when hunting feral hogs, I find that broadside heart/lung shots which are a high percentage shot on deer, don’t work so well due to the cartilaginous shield protecting a hogs shoulder (especially boars). But let the porker angle away allowing me to deliver a quartering shot that slips behind the shield hitting the lung and offside shoulder, and we’re good to go!

The “head on” placement can be very effective, providing you know your quarry’s anatomy. If an animal carries its head low, like a feral hog, this might offer very limited access. However, quarry such as jackrabbits or prairie dogs that sit with their heads held high, offer a good frontal option that allows the heart, lung, spine, or great vessels to be targeted.

For most of us growing up hunting deer or other big game with firearms, the “broadside” shot was the holy grail of shot placements. When most game animals stand side on to the hunter, it allows the heart and lungs to be targeted. As a matter of fact, if the gun has the power to fully penetrate the animal both the onside and offside lung and hide are punctured and provides a good blood trail if tracking is required. When hunting with a centerfire rifle, a double lung shot generates massive trauma and will often cause the animal to drop. However, an airgun is more like an arrow in that the lungs are pierced without hydrostatic damage to the lungs, so the animal may run before succumbing.  If the lung is penetrated low, there will be a good blood trail and it will be easy to track the animal for recovery. If hit high, there may be no blood at the site and the animal might run 100 yards with no spoor to follow.

Quartering shots can be the quite effective, but are dependent on a knowledge of your quarry’s anatomy. This shot placement will often allow multiple critical points to be impacted. A quartering shot on a predator might allow the lung, the heart, and the offside shoulder to be impacted, shutting down both the circulatory systems (heart/lung) and mechanics (shoulder), anchoring the quarry in place.

I did mention the relevance of caliber and power on choice of shot placement: a quartering shot serves no purpose if there is inadequate energy to allow deep penetration. If I have any doubt that the gun and ammo can deliver the performance to penetrate and cause the damage required for a body shot, I’ll take a head shot or pass on it altogether. This is often a call you’ll need to make in the field with your finger on the trigger. I might be lined up on a 75 lb meat pig with my .35 pcp rifles shooting a solid slug at 125 fpe, when a 250 boar drifts in and clears the area. This rig will not provide the penetration on such a massive animal, so a body shot is out the window and the headshot back up for consideration.

I have written about the ethics of using body shots in the past, and I obviously think that when used appropriately, they are effective, efficient, and ethical. Making sure that it is an appropriate option is dependent on several variables: such as the game, situation, shot placement, and gear being used. In the US we don’t have limits on either the caliber or power outputs of the guns we can use, which informs my opinions on this subject. I think that if you apply the same questions to your own situation with respect to game, gear, and conditions, you can make the right decision as to whether body shots will work for you.

On another topis: Are any of you getting ready for EBR? My summers slow down quite a bit hunting-wise, but I am trying to get to the range a couple time a week for some bench rest practice. Had so much fun last year that I am really looking forward to visiting Phoenix in a few months, and maybe doing a bit better than last year!

I’ll talk a little bit about my techniques for hunting cottontail and jackrabbits in the West Texas scrub. A simple quarry can make for a fun and challenging hunt, depending on your approach!

I have been asked if hunting jackrabbits is the same as hunting cottontails, and my response is that while there are some similarities, there are just as many, differences. Out in the scrub and desert areas where I do much of my rabbit and hare hunting, these two species overlap in terrain but react quite differently to a threat.

When approaching a cottontail, they will often hold until almost underfoot, then jet away to the next clump of brush and hide. If approached again, they will repeat this, running from one clump of brush and thickets to the next, always staying just ahead of the hunter. They tend to move in a large loop, not veering too far from their territory.

When after cottontails, I’ll slowly stalk an area, looking 15-30 feet ahead for a rabbit grazing or moving about through the brush. I’ll then move at a very slow pace towards my quarry, and if a shot is offered, take it. But often this will push the rabbit and it will run 10-20 yards before diving into the undergrowth. Then it’s a matter of sorting out where the rabbit is holding up, finding a shooting lane, and dropping a pellet on its head. These shots are mostly taken offhand, because it is often impossible to get a line if you sit or kneel, and the shots are usually inside of 40 yards.

Jackrabbits on the other hand, will usually hold until pushed, then take off on a dead run away from the threat, though they will often stop for a quick look back. Then they bolt, continuing to put as much distance between themselves and the hunter as possible. These rabbits can cover a couple hundred yards in no time, leaving you to stand and watch them disappear into the distance without another look back.

When I grew up hunting jackrabbits with a .22 long rifle, we would kick them up and take a shot as they ran away, frequently in a straight line. But when I started hunting with airguns, my tactics changed, and I made the effort to glass an area, find a bedded or feeding jackrabbit, and set up a stalk. I like to find a rise or sit on the edge of an arroyo, and glass the bases of mesquites or cactus looking for a bedded jack. In the early mornings and around dusk they are still active, and you might spot them running about, but in the balance of the day it’s all about finding them lying in their scrapes.

Another tact that we’ll sometimes use on our hunts in Texas, is to cruise the ranch roads that cross these huge properties in one of the ranch trucks with elevated seats/shooting platforms glassing for jacks, then set up our stalks from there. These desert hares have population fluctuations and sometimes are so thick you can’t swing a dead cat without hitting one while at other times you need to cover a lot of ground, and driving on the roads lets you do that.

Another factor to consider is the time of year. The arid scrubland can become thick with vegetation when the rains come in spring (if they come), and jackrabbits will hold tight until you are right on top of them. It can be very difficult to spot them when glassing because you can barely see a dozen yards in front of you, unless you have elevation, and even then, it can be challenging.

Once located, I’ll look for a landmark such as a tree with unique profile or a rock formation to use as a reference, because as I stalk in, I might only be able to see above the brush line. At this point one of three things generally occurs: I find an elevated spot or a clearing that permits me to line up a long-range shot. This is a high percentage shot that is usually made with me in a sitting position and the rifle up on sticks. The next is when I can get in closer and either peek over, around, or through the scrub brush and find the hare still bedded in its scrape, or sometimes on semi alert and standing with its ears rotating around scanning for sound. These shots are often made kneeling or standing, though sometimes I’ll sit or go prone to shoot under the low tree branches. If I can get into position this is also a high percentage shot, though I do tend to spook a lot of jacks as I’m setting up. If they start to move, I am not in a good position to shoot even if they stop to look back at me, before taking that long sprint to the far and away!

The last scenario is the lowest percentage and has the highest rate of failure in even getting a chance at a shot, and that is when I walk in and spook the hare. The root cause of this is that I lose visual contact with the landmark and orientation with the jackrabbit’s position, and all I see is the backend and a blacktail as he heads for safer ground.

One of the reasons jackrabbits are a favorite quarry is that these hunts are more like stalking a deer than most small game hunts. Glassing the animal at a distance, setting up a stalk, moving into position, taking the shot are techniques I employ during the deer season. But in addition, jackrabbits can act downright deer-like, and when the sense danger rather than bolting away, they will sometimes sneak around behind you like a wary old buck that has survived a few seasons and knows the ropes.

The guns I like for this type of hunting are PCPs in the larger calibers, .25 and .30 (no surprise there) and generating 40-90 fpe. Every trip down to jackrabbit country, regardless of my primary quarry, I’ll pack my Brocock Commander .25, Kalibregun Cricket II Tactical (both in .30), or Brocock Compatto .22 to do a side hunt for jackrabbits. What these rifles all have in common is excellent accuracy, power, fast cycling actions, reliability, and I can shoot them well from most positions. I will say though that if the intention is to focus on long-range shooting I’ll gravitate towards the BRK Ghost or Commander, if the action is close and fast, I like one of the compact bullpups or sub-carbines.

I like a compact scope with 3-12 x magnification, and lately I’ve been using a lot of first focal plane models from MTC.  The Hawke Airmax is another scope that has been doing well for me.

The two primary pellets used are either JSB Exacts or JSB Hades, and I find that the Exacts are a bit more accurate at long range, whilst the Hades are quite acceptable and have a devastating terminal performance. Of late, I’ve been doing more with airgun slugs, using either the NSA or FX Hybrid slugs in both .25 and .30. My collection of mid bore rifles is pickier about which slugs they prefer, but when they find the slug they like, the long-range accuracy and knockdown power can be impressive!

The two other pieces of kit I find very useful on these desert hare hunts are a good 10x binocular and a range finder, I use Leupold for both. I do have to say that my preferred glass is the Hawke Frontier, but I recently lost another set (the third I’ve dropped along the way) and haven’t gotten a replacement yet.

I guess the reason I like hunting jackrabbits so much is that it mixes attributes of big game hunting with small game. Glassing an area, finding the quarry bedded down, setting up an approach, and closing in for the shot is a close approximation to deer hunting. While the fact it is not one shot and done is more like small game hunting where you can keep on hunting for as long as you’d like. And I really love the ecosystems where these hunts take place, from the Texas scrub to the Western Sonoran and Mojave deserts, give me an air rifle and I’m ready to go!

Conventional sporter rifles, carbines, bullpups, or semi-bullpups? I’ll talk about the guns I gravitate to for field work.

Love a Compact Hunting Rig

I am frequently asked what I look for in a hunting rifle? There are the nonnegotiable requirements of accuracy, appropriate power, reliability, and ergonomics. For me, there is a second level of attributes that could be considered key preferences, such as sound suppression, adjustability, and compactness. As a matter of fact, the latter is so important as to almost reach the level of a baseline requirement. This “quasi-requirement” of compactness can be achieved using carbines, semi-bullpups, or bullpups.

A carbine is essentially a short barreled rifle, typically less than 18″ LOA, and the stock is usually of smaller dimensions and more minimalist. Bullpups were an acquired taste for me, as my preference had run towards traditional sporter stocks with a carbine length barrel. Bullpups are in many ways, the polar opposite of this aesthetic. But there is a good reason the design has become so prevalent, it works! The semi-bullpup is a great option in my opinion, because it provides the benefits of a bullpup but fits and shoots like a carbine.

In the most basic terms, a bullpup is defined as an airgun with an action that is located behind the trigger instead of in front of it, and the receiver is shifted to the rear of the buttstock. This allows a full length barrel (as opposed to a carbine length barrel) to be used while the overall length of the gun remains compact. Many bullpup airguns use a similar one piece stock design, often a thumbhole stock with a pistol grip. The trend for bottle forward designs has gained a lot of traction over the last few years, serving the dual purpose of onboard air storage and the guns forestock.

With the action moved behind the trigger, in many of the earlier designs the loading port and the cocking mechanism were also positioned toward the buttstock. However, most modern designs have moved the cocking mechanism into a more standard position further forward. This makes loading and cycling the bullpup much faster and easier to accomplish. The semi-bullpup has the trigger positioned forward, but the receiver is not moved as far back on the buttstock.

Pros and Cons

In my experience there are advantages with the bullpup and semi-bullpup design in a hunting application. They are generally more compact than even a carbine but can still implement a full length rifle barrel and a larger air storage. This may or may not result in a lighter gun. However, my experience has been that even with a heavier bullpup the weight is distributed so as to distribute the weight into the shooters center of gravity, providing a stable hold for offhand shooting.

Another significant advantage is that the shorter overall length of the bullpup and semi-bullpup is more maneuverable in confined spaces. This might be shooting from inside a vehicle, a blind, or when moving through very thick brush. These guns are also much easier to travel with, which is important to me when heading out on the road. There is often a need to travel by air and to check multiple guns with my baggage, and I can pack a bullpup into a much smaller hardcase, or even pack two or more bullpups into a standard sized case.

The disadvantages associated with PCP bullpups are that depending on the design the cheek-weld might be uncomfortable and the line of sight suboptimal, however most of the current models have addressed these ergonomic issues. It was also a common perception that the triggers on some bullpups could be pretty sloppy with a lot of creep and overtravel related to the linkage components used between the trigger and the repositioned action. This may be true in budget level guns, it has been addressed in most modern gun designs, especially the guns like the BRK Ghost Bullpup and Brocock Sniper Sahara semi-bullpup that I’ve been hunting with this year, with the triggers on a par or even exceeding many full sized premium rifles.

My caliber preference for compact rigs used to hunt small game is .25 or .30 caliber, applying the same rationale I’ve mentioned for hunting rifles in the past. In a high power gun, these larger calibers are fairly flat shooting, hit like a sledgehammer, can be exceedingly accurate, and the projectiles carry well for longer range shooting. And since the bullpup and semi use a full length barrel and often has a high volume air storage, their efficiency and performance with a larger caliber is comparable to a full sized rifle.

There are several ways to carry these compact guns in the field. You can use a standard rifle sling with a swivel mount in the stock and attached to either the fore stock mounted swivel or via a bottle-band up front. I have also found that the 3-point slings developed for tactical firearms can work well on many bullpup configurations. The standard sling is more comfortable to carry over longer distances, but the 3-point systems deploy faster.

The scopes and other optics I use on my hunting bullpups are diverse, though I gravitate towards more compact optics. I have a hard time justifying a large, heavy, high power scope on an otherwise compact gun. Unless long range shooting is the order of the day, such as when shooting prairie dogs for instance, magnification greater than 9x is not that useful. On the other hand, most (although not all) higher magnification scopes tend to be quite large. In most settings, this higher magnification is not worth the inconvenience of a larger and heavier scope.

Compact guns, especially for small game hunting always rate high with me, be they carbines, bullpups or semi-bullpups.  They are easy to move around with, in my opinion they are easier to shoot offhand than most full sized rifles, they take less room to pack when space is at a premium, and some (but not all) are ergonomic and very shootable. Of the three styles, at this time my favorite bullpup is the BRK Ghost, and my favorite semi-bullpup is the Brocock Sahara, both in .30. I still love my elegant Huntsman’s Classic styling but find myself reaching for a bullpup or semi-bullpup more often than I would have ever imagined, based on form following function!

What’s Up Next?

We’re getting into summer, and hunting slows down a bit. I plan to get out for some target shooting, and deciding which gun to use at Extreme Bench Rest this year. I’ve got my range set up on a friends farm about an hour south, and plan on spending a couple days per week on the bench. Not only to get in some BR practice, but also because there are a lot of new guns to try out!

I also recently sat in on a discussion for an upcoming editorial piece in Airgun World Magazine, in which the topic was the potential impact of the current trade environment on the global airgun market. It was written more in the context of how it impacts the British businesses, and my part was small, but it will be an interesting read.

And a final note: if there is anything in particular relating to airgun hunting that you’d like me to take a look at, shoot me an email and I’ll put it on the list. Hope everyone enjoys the warm months ahead, and keep coming back, should have some interesting content coming at you!

I take the BRK Ghost .30 caliber out to the ranch in pursuit of jackrabbits. Join me and I’ll tell you what I think of this gun in the field!

Introduction

Rabbits and hares are cyclic, and their populations can fluctuate depending on rain, predation, and disease. On my last trip to Texas, I had noticed a marked drop in numbers, but now, a year later, rabbits could frequently be seen along the roadside when driving onto the vast property. There are two species of rabbits hunted in this region: the cottontail rabbit and the blacktail jackrabbit, the former being a true rabbit and the latter a hare. In fact, there are two subspecies of cottontail: the Eastern cottontail, weighing in at about 2.5 lb, and the smaller (1.5 lb) desert cottontail. The jackrabbits are significantly larger, typically weighing over 6 lb.

Small game hunting here requires a gun that can transition from fast close-range to rested long-range shooting. Based on past experience, my intention was to cover a lot of territory on foot, and I reckoned that most shots would be inside of 50 yards. However, I also expected that long-range opportunities were likely to pop up and wanted a capable rifle. My requirement was a compact, easy-to-carry rifle offering a high shot count, in addition to being very accurate and powerful. The BRK Ghost seemed like a solid choice. The .30 caliber version of the rifle had entered my collection a few months earlier, and though it was impressive on the range, I had yet to hunt with it.

The BRK Ghost

The Ghost is one of the modular bottle-forward guns that have gained popularity in recent years, and I found this example of the design to be exceptional on several levels. Using JSB Diabolo Exact 44.75 grain pellets, the Ghost was set up to deliver about 25 shots at 80 fpe. While the large plenum and adjustability make it possible to dial the power up to 100 fpe, for my intended application, I chose to skew the setup towards a slightly higher shot count. The very smooth cycling sidelever action, paired with a reliable and easy-to-load 8-shot magazine, results in fast and accurate shooting. As mentioned, the gun is compact (33.6” in length with a 23” barrel), which makes it quite comfortable to carry in rough terrain and easy to deploy in heavy brush.

The trigger on the Ghost is also very impressive; it is fully adjustable for weight and travel and breaks like the proverbial glass rod. I also believe the trigger shoe is one of the most tactile designs I’ve shot in a production gun. An MTC Optics King Cobra 6-24 x 50 F1 first focal plane scope was mounted on the rifle, and this package works for me whether I’m shooting at 40 yards or 125 yards. With the question of the gun and optics addressed and the setup sorted out, I was ready to hit the trail!

Cottontail Hunts

The next morning, I drove a couple of miles along one of the ranch roads to an area covered in palo verde, cactus, and prairie grass. Climbing out of the Bronco and collecting my gear, I saw a cottontail make a break for cover. Once organized, I headed in the direction the rabbit had bolted, using the brush for cover. Moving forward and looking over the top of a palo verde, I saw the cottontail sitting in the shadows amongst the grass and cactus. Bringing the Ghost to shoulder, I let the crosshairs drop on the rabbit’s head a short 15 yards away and squeezed the trigger. I find that these close-range shots are often more difficult to judge than long-range, but at least it was a clean miss. Following along, I squatted down and looked under the tree branches, spotting my prey about 50 yards away. The rabbit had paused, secure in its natural camo, and was alert for danger. I brought the gun up and, using my knees for support, lined up the shot. This time, I watched the bunny crumple at the rifle’s report, cleanly anchored.

Over the next hour, I worked my way through this area of denser vegetation, bagging a couple more cottontails. As the cover thinned out, my hike continued, but I didn’t see another cottontail. They tend to prefer early morning shadows and denser brush, and whether due to the later hour or the sparser landscape, the cottontails had vacated the area.

Jackrabbit Hunts

Moving along, I caught a glimpse of motion to my right and spotted a jackrabbit that, rather than the long hops and lightning-fast bursts of speed most commonly seen, was carefully sneaking away, putting trees and clumps of cactus between us. He was acting like a wily old whitetail buck in stealth mode. I turned and started after him in a slow-motion stalk. Using the same vegetation for cover, I moved forward, and the rabbit moved away, keeping about the same distance between us. I think he knew I was there and following, but this big hare kept moving when in the open. Finally, after not seeing him come out from behind a small stand of brush, I peeked over the top of a stunted palo verde and found the jack sitting in a clearing at about 60 yards. I swapped the camera for my rifle and brought it up to shoulder as I dropped down behind a hill of dirt and dead branches. The Ghost seemed to pull right into my center of gravity and provided a stable position for the shot. I find that as I get older, my offhand hold is not as stable as it once was, so I’m constantly assessing my confidence level before taking the shot. But I felt locked in and knew my shot would fall where I aimed, which was the back of the hare’s skull. I shot, he dropped, and a minute later, I was walking over to claim my game.

The grazing land is marginal in this area, and an excessively high jackrabbit population can have an adverse impact on livestock. However, this year was very wet with lots of rain (in the context of a desert ecosystem), so there was a lot of grass and jackrabbit populations were healthy but not over the top. These rabbits are not as good table fare as cottontails, and I therefore limited my take. I hiked and set up a couple of good stalks, using my camera more and rifle less. But by the end of the morning, I’d bagged four cottontails and two jackrabbits.

Advantages of the .30

The BRK Ghost served me very well on this hunt. The accuracy, power, ergonomics, and cycling speed all added up to make this an outstanding small game gun. The decision to opt for the .30 caliber version was a good one. This caliber hit hard and was dead accurate, dropping the big jacks with head or body shots (out to 90 yards) and taking the smaller cottontails without excessive meat damage. Yet this same gun would later prove capable of anchoring a feral hog, providing a multi-use hunting rig. The .30 was definitely more gun than necessary for rabbits, including the big jacks, and was very effective at longer range. A .25 would have done almost as well, but it’s the fact that the .30 provides a solid platform for hogs or predators that really sold me.

Closing thoughts

I’ve been working with pellets and slugs in this gun and will be coming up with some detailed feedback on what I found, using both to hunt small and medium sized game. Again, if you have thoughts on guns, ammo, accessories you’d like to see discussed, let me know! I hope your all enjoying the warmer weather and getting out to shoot! We’ll catch up again in a couple weeks, hope to see you back!