Using a Blind For Airgun Hunting

Posted on July 9, 2026 by Jim Chapman

We built this blind on a farm in S. Africa where thousands of pigeons, guinea fowl, and monkeys were coming in to raid the feed lots.

One strategy for getting into range with your quarry is by using a hide or a blind. A blind can be used with or without accompanying camouflage clothing. The advantage of a hide is that it gives the hunter cover, allowing them to move around a little without spooking their quarry. You can cock the gun, reload, and look around without blowing your cover. The two main types of blinds are natural and man-made, but there are many variations on the theme. These range from wearing a 3-D poncho and sitting next to a clump of native vegetation to a mini-house on stilts, and each has its pros and cons.

A natural blind is constructed using vegetation you find in the field, such as gathering downed limbs and tree branches to form a leafy shelter. It is important to position yourself in proximity to food, water, or roosting locations, and ensure that there are adequate shooting lanes to permit game to be taken from any direction. The advantage of this approach is that the natural materials blend into the surroundings and can be set up and left standing, so that on later excursions, they can be touched up and reused. Additionally, the quarry has a chance to acclimate to the structure in its environment and is more likely to come into range. The disadvantages are that this type of blind is not as comfortable or waterproof as manmade blinds and tends to take longer to set up. It’s a good idea to carry a ball of green or brown twine to tie everything securely together, and a pair of clippers for trimming back shooting lanes.

There are several types of man-made blinds, but two designs that I’ve come to favor are a large camouflage pop-up tent and a chair with a built-in tent cover.  These are both relatively light and easy to carry, but best of all, they deploy quickly and work well. The chair allows me to hike through the woods, find a likely-looking spot, set up in less than a minute, and sit in comfort, waiting for a squirrel to saunter into range. On a recent small-game hunt, I walked to a spot within 30 yards of a den tree, set up the chair blind, cycled my rifle, and popped two squirrels as they moved through the trees to feed. I reloaded and took another one a few minutes later. I sat in this spot, with drizzling rain coming down, warm and dry, while filling my five-squirrel limit.

You can place blinds along game trails, near natural food sources or watering holes, or over feeders to draw game within range. Some may argue that hunting over a feeder is not “true” hunting, but it is unquestionably effective. I find spot-and-stalk, or still hunting, more challenging and generally prefer it. However, hunting from a blind over a feeder is no less ethical than hunting over a natural water hole or feeding area. In many areas, hunters are limited to small properties, where attracting game may be the only practical option. Where hunter density is high, blinds can also be safer than having several people moving through the same area. In South Texas, I have hunted brush so thick that moving through it was impossible, making a blind and feeder set up over a sendero the only practical approach. For me, the ethical standard is whether the hunter can make a precise, effective shot. If the method is legal, how you hunt is largely a matter of personal preference. For example, shooting a hog from a blind at 60 yards with a .45 air rifle fits my idea of a good hunt better than shooting one at 400 yards with a .30-06 after glassing it from a distant hillside. In my view, the long shot is unrelated to hunting and is simply shooting. My ideal hunt, though, would be to spot a hog from afar, stalk within 50 yards, and take it cleanly with a big-bore air rifle. But any of these scenarios is acceptable if it is legal, productive, and the hunter is confident in the outcome.

If you’d like me to go into more detail on portable blinds, or how I build natural blinds, let me know! I’m getting ready to pack my new Daystate BlackWolf and some camping gear on my e-bike for a couple days of hot weather summer camping, and look forward to reporting back on that trip!

Categories: airgun hunting, Airguns of Arizona, ambush hunting, hunting blinds, hunting techniques | Leave a comment

Long Range Hunting the Wind

Posted on July 7, 2026 by Jim Chapman

Modern airgunners have plenty of gear, but when the wind picks up, none of it matters as much as knowing how to read the air. You don’t learn wind-doping from a chart or a video, it’s learned outside, rifle in hand, paying attention and practicing….. a lot. Having said this, selecting the right rifle, scope, and projectile is a major part of the equation.

Back at the bench, life is simpler. Clip a windicator to your rifle, and you’ll get a tidy snapshot of what the breeze is doing at your shooting position. A squeeze bottle of talc will show you the faintest drift in the field. Handy tools, for sure, but they only tell you what’s happening at the muzzle. And the muzzle isn’t where your pellet makes its impact.

See the wind kicking up dust as these pronghorns run behind the prairie dog town I’m hunting

Out in the field, the real story is written between you and the target. That’s where the wind bends, swirls, and turns a hit into a miss. If you want to make hits when the breeze starts to kick up, you need to start reading the country.

The woods are full of clues. Leaves fluttering, twigs twitching on the edge of your vision, branches swaying, all tell you something about the winds direction and strength. Hunters who pay attention start to see patterns long before they shoulder the rifle.

Out on the prairie, the signs are even clearer. Grass leans. Dust lifts. The whole landscape becomes a real-time wind map. Prairie dog shooters know this better than anyone: if the grass is lying flat to the left or right, your pellet is about to take a long walk sideways. These natural indicators help you figure out how the wind will affect your pellet or slug.

For long-range shooting, the first step is to decide on the rifle and optics you want to use. An example of a long-range rig I use a lot is the Brocock Ghost .30, topped with an MTC King Cobra FFP scope.  This rifle is dead accurate, and fully adjustable so I can tune it to optimize pellet or slug performance, it has a high shot count, a great trigger, and plenty of power for reaching out and anchoring pariaire rats. The next step is figuring out what it’s going to do to your pellet. And here’s where picking the right projectile can help: light pellets drift more, drift faster, and drift unpredictably.

For long shots out to 75 yards and beyond, a heavy pellet or airgun slug is worth its weight in hits. Something with real mass and a decent ballistic coefficient. Think of something like the AEA Center Punch .25 33.9gr Diabolo Pellets, or the 33.95 grain JSB Exact King Heavy MKII designed for high-power PCP airguns. These pellets offer excellent long-range performance, solid power retention, and accuracy. I also use various air slugs for longer-range shooting, especially in the wind. One that I use more than any other in my .25 caliber guns is the Nielsen Specialty Ammo .250 Caliber 33.5 Grain Hollow Point. Push them at 850 fps, and you’ve got a projectile that fights the wind instead of surrendering to it. Will it eliminate drift? Absolutely not! But it can cut it down enough to keep you in the game, if the wind is not too bad. If the wind is truly ripping, though, do yourself a favor: pack it in and find another chore. Some days the wind wins.

When shooting prairie dogs in windy conditions, I like hunting with a spotter. Even skilled wind readers can be off in real field conditions; that first shot can be a SWAG. That’s why experienced hunters often work in pairs: one shoots while the other spots. You can do this on your own, spotting through the scope. However, a partner with a high-magnification spotting scope is better at calling impacts, tracking drift, and guiding follow-up shots onto the target. If the wind is steady, you can eventually get dialed in. If it shifts, you’ll at least learn how it is changing. Wind doping isn’t about perfection; it’s about adapting on the fly.

Ask anybody who has gone after prairie dogs or woodchucks with an air rifle, and they’ll tell you: reading the wind is part science, part instinct, and part black magic. You learn it by missing. You refine it by watching. You master it by paying attention to the “tells” around you, the leaves, the grass, the dust, the way your pellet flies. And when you finally make that long shot in a stiff crosswind, when you hold off just right and watch the pellet land exactly where you intended, you’ll understand why wind doping isn’t just a shooting skill. It’s a woodsman’s craft and a critical part of a hunter’s skill set.

Categories: .25 caliber, .30 caliber, airgun ammo, Airguns of Arizona, Brocock, Brocock ghost, doping the wind, Long Range shooting, shooting sticks, Shooting technique, Uncategorized, windy conditions | Leave a comment

Bolt or Sidelever Action on My Hunting Guns?

Posted on July 5, 2026 by Jim Chapman

I’ve been asked about my preference in a PCP rifle action for hunting: is it a sidelever or a bolt? I am going to explain why I prefer a sidelever, but I also want to be upfront: if I like everything else about a rifle and it has a bolt action, that will not stop me from buying it. I have many bolt actions in my collection that will stay there, but most of my new guns are side-lever.

The side-lever action on the Daystate BLACKWOLF is one of the most ergonomic and fastest-cycling in the field.

Ask most experienced hunters, and they’ll tell you that while the first shot is important, the follow‑up shot can be the one that counts. Whether you’re clearing feral pigeons in a barn or taking a jittery fox squirrel in dense woods, speed can make the difference.

Side‑levers are very well suited for hunting. The mechanism enables faster cycling with less effort, resulting in reduced motion and more accurate follow-up. Couple this with seamless integration with a high‑capacity magazine, and it becomes a fast, stable platform for cycling. I think the Daystate Black Wolf Zero has one of the best side-lever actions I’ve used recently.

This is why so many flagship PCP rifles, like the Daystate Delta Wolf, Brocock Ghost, and RTI Prophet, use them. And an emerging trend is that many budget-friendly models are being offered with a side lever. Manufacturers don’t make this choice lightly. They do it because hunters need a fast, smooth action, and this requirement is well served by a side‑lever action.

As I said, bolt actions can still be quick in practiced hands, but they typically do not match the fluidity of a well‑designed side‑lever. What I have found is that in a very well-engineered and manufactured rifle, a bolt action can be made smooth and fast to cycle. And though it may approximate a side lever, in my experience, it will not surpass it.

However, in mid-level mass-produced, budget, or mid-tier model rifles, a side lever will almost always be much better. Many of the more powerful PCP rifles require an increased cocking force, and this is where a side‑lever can be advantageous. A bolt action can become stiff or awkward at high pressures. A side‑lever, with its longer handle and optimized leverage, makes cocking smooth and predictable. This improves consistency and keeps the shooter focused on the shot rather than the mechanics.

The sidelever on my RTI Prophet is configured on the left side, which I like for bench rest shooting.

I have heard it said that the bolt action still has one notable advantage: rugged simplicity. With fewer moving parts and a straightforward locking system, some believe that bolts tolerate abuse better. Hunters who trek deep into harsh terrain or want mechanical minimalism may prefer the bolt action. But I have to say that after shooting hundreds of rifles with both actions, I haven’t seen a real advantage with respect to reliability, at least in the last several years. Modern side‑levers have become tougher and more reliable than ever before.

Categories: Airguns of Arizona, Brocock, Daystate, Daystate Black wolf, Side-lever, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Is a Range Finder Useful For Airgun Hunting?

Posted on July 5, 2026 by Jim Chapman

People who have watched my videos or read my articles have noticed that I sometimes use a rangefinder while hunting and have asked whether it is truly useful in the field. My answer is: yes and no. I do not use one on every hunt. For many hunts, such as squirrels in the woods or rabbits in thick brush, shots are close enough that a rangefinder adds little to targeting. However, when taking longer shots at groundhogs or prairie dogs, it can be invaluable. Even though I do not always use a rangefinder, I almost always keep one in my daypack, and I’ll explain why.

Using a rangefinder to hone in on a 100-yard shot in S. Africa

The most important factor for harvesting/hunting small game with an air gun is shot placement.    Long-distance shooting calls for a scope to achieve precise shot placement and quick, clean kills. Range estimation is especially important when using an air rifle, because in these guns the flight trajectory of the pellet will be significantly arced. Most of us are pretty good at making gross observations of distance; is an object close or far away? However, telling whether an object such as a plump bunny is sitting thirty or forty yards away is somewhat more difficult. If you hold the crosshairs on the rabbit’s head at thirty yards, you will hit him in the head, while with the same hold on the rabbit at forty yards, you will end up shooting him in the foot. Because of the importance of accurately ranging your shots when hunting with an airgun, many hunters use scopes with an AO correction, mil-dots, and a laser rangefinder to be sure of distance.

Laser rangefinders work by sending out an invisible beam of infrared energy that will reflect off the object it’s aimed at. A high-speed internal clock measures how long it takes the beam to return and calculates the distance from that measurement. Since the propagation velocity of the transmitted signal is known, it is relatively simple for the onboard computer to determine the distance. How well they work depends on the target’s reflective properties and environmental conditions. Color, surface finish, size, and shape of the target all affect performance. Highly reflective surfaces or colors are easier to “read,” and a small target is harder to read than a large object.

Using a rangefinder effectively during your hunts is easy if you follow a couple of rules. If you simply carry it around in your pocket until you see a distant target and then try to measure the range, you have complicated the shot. The method that works best for me is to pick an object close to your prey, such as a rock or a tree, and use it as a reference. When hunting from a set area, my approach is to range several landmarks when I first reach the stand so I can reference them when an animal arrives, as there is not always time to recheck the distance. When setting up at an ambush site to shoot prairie dogs, I’ll use my range finder to map the distance to surrounding mounds, so when the dogs start popping up, I already have them ranged.

So, what should you look for in a range finder to carry in your airgun hunting kit? First off, I’d say that just about any range finder is better than the naked eye, but there are some features to consider that genuinely affect your hit probability with sub‑1000 fps projectiles. Airgun shots are usually 20–90 yards, sometimes out to 100. Most general hunting rangefinders are optimized for 200–800 yards and can be sloppy at close range. You want accuracy of ±0.5 yards inside 60 yards, the ability to range as close as 5–10 yards, and a fast return time for moving small game. Airgun hunters often shoot up into trees, down from blinds, or across uneven terrain. Pellet drop can be extreme, so a readout in true horizontal distance, not just line‑of‑sight, is useful.

Range finder paired with some good glass will let you zero in on long shots>

Some of the more advanced features include small‑target ranging modes such as “Small target mode”, “Bullseye mode”, and “Close‑range priority”. These prevent the rangefinder from locking onto branches behind the animal. I have found that archery-designed rangefinders work best for airgunning, as they are designed for similar ranges and with similar features.

Durability and weather resistance are important; airgun hunting often means damp mornings, crawling through heavy brush, tree climbing, and cold, wet weather. Look for a range finder with water resistance, rubber armor, and one with good battery life in cold temps. Keep the range finder compact and lightweight, and make sure you can use it one‑handed and while wearing gloves.

Back to the original question: I think range finders are very valuable for long range shooting, not so much for close-range applications, but since an opportunistic long-range shot can always present itself, it never hurts to

 

Categories: binoculars, Long Range shooting, Prairie dogs, range finder, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Hunting with Shooting Sticks

Posted on July 5, 2026 by Jim Chapman

I’ve mentioned that I like to use shooting sticks and bipods in the field because they let me quickly stabilize my gun in virtually any required shooting position.  An advantage of using sticks rather than a naturally occurring structure is that if you need to make an adjustment or move, you can simply take them with you and reset them. There are many variations on shooting sticks and bipods available on the market, and I’ll share what has become my go-to solution.

My gear for a day out for prairie dogs. A good set of shooting sticks is a must for long range shooting.

Shooting sticks generally come in three configurations: a single stick with a rest; two sticks that cross near the top, allowing the shooter to grip the joint for added stability; and a similar three-stick design. Many models are made in two or three sections with various locking mechanisms so they can be used at different heights or broken down when not in use.

I have used a telescoping single pole with a padded V-shaped rest in the past. Although it is the least stable stick design, it is very light and compact and deploys fairly quickly for nearly any shooting position; I have used them while standing, kneeling, and sitting. For prone shots, I prefer using my pack because it provides much better stability at the right height. When stalking through the woods or closing in on game, I usually set the stick to the proper height for a standing shot before I need it, so I am not fumbling with setup when I should be focusing on getting into position. I especially like this setup for desert hunting, where there is little natural support, and the brush height often requires a standing shot at thirty-five to forty yards. Double- and triple-stick models work much the same way; they are much more stable, but they are more cumbersome to set up and less portable when you need to shift position.

Bipods are another option if you need a portable rest to shoot from. Most models, such as Rockchucks or Harris Bipods, are telescoping and usually snap onto the sling swivels or a forestock mounted rail, folding up when not in use. Because these bipods are mounted to the gun, they are shorter than an unattached bipod shooting stick. These devices are used from a prone or perhaps sitting/kneeling position if they are longer versions, but are of limited use if you will be shooting from a standing position. I often use bipods when hunting prairie dogs on the open grasslands, as the shots are frequently at long range from a sitting or from a prone position. But with most small game, the shots tend to come with less warning and at closer range, and a standing shot is required. When hunting small game with airguns my preference is to use a shooting stick. However, for pest control, where I have time to set up my shooting position, I will sometimes use a bipod instead.

Besides the many commercially available shooting sticks, you can build your own quite simply. Here’s how you go about making them: Go to your local hardware store and buy two one-half-inch hardwood dowels, 30 inches to 46 inches long; wrap twine horizontally around the sticks about 4” from the top, then spread the sticks apart and do a few vertical wraps, then tie off the string.  However, my absolute favorite shooting stick is the Primos Polecat, which are lightweight, adjustable aluminum field sticks designed to give hunters a fast, quiet, and steady shooting rest, using a rubberized V‑yoke and telescoping legs (in monopod, bipod, or tripod versions) that adjust smoothly for sitting, kneeling, or standing shots, making them durable, weather‑resistant, reliable, and very fast to deploy. I find that these sticks (I mostly use the bipod version) hit the sweet spot: they are very compact and can be easily folded and carried in my day pack or in a holster worn on my belt or attached to my pack. These sticks deploy very quickly; they offer simple, quick rifle mounting, and once the gun is mounted, the shooter has considerable maneuverability while maintaining a stable hold.

Categories: airgun hunting, Hunting Accessories, hunting techniques, Long Range shooting, offhand shooting, Predator hunting, shooting sticks, Shooting technique, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Airguns and Jackrabbits (Part 2)

Posted on July 4, 2026 by Jim Chapman

In this week’s post, I’ll continue on the topic of hunting the big desert hares of the Southwestern US, the jackrabbit. Sometimes I hunt the same country with a different approach. Rather than still-hunting, I’ll walk the tops of a wash and glass the opposite slope. I’ve found that a jackrabbit, spotting danger across the wash, will often hold tighter and longer than it would if I were at the same distance on its side. Often, a jack will sit tall with its ears straight up, fully alert, offering a clean shot. I usually prefer a head shot, especially with a .177, though I’ve taken plenty of jacks with a well-placed chest shot. Over the last few years, I’ve opted to use a .25- or .30-caliber rifle for added knockdown power.

Another productive method is cruising dirt backroads until you spot a jack tucked into his scrape.      Once located, I’ll park and slip out quietly, then start the stalk using the same slow, deliberate approach as before. Unlike firearm hunting, when I’m carrying an airgun I won’t shoot at a running jack. They spook easily and will often sprint a long distance before settling again, and unlike cottontails they rarely circle back. In thicker cover, I’ve had jackrabbits quietly backtrack like wary whitetails, slipping through the brush with surprising caution.

Glassing the area looking for bedded rabbits

I’ve hunted jackrabbits with a variety of spring‑piston rifles over the years, but the one that continues to stand out is the Weihrauch HW95 in .22. It has that ideal balance of power, accuracy, and carry weight that matters when you’re covering miles of rough desert country. The .22 caliber performs well on big, tough jacks, delivering clean, confident hits with a smooth shooting cycle that this rifle is known for. After many years in the field, it’s one of the springers I trust most when chasing these long‑eared desert hares!

Having used just about every type of air rifle you can carry into the desert, PCP rifles have become my primary tools for this game. When you’re covering miles of rugged country, dealing with wind, and needing fast follow‑up shots, a well‑tuned PCP is the right tool. The combination of power, consistency, and shootability is hard to beat. For jackrabbit hunting, I’ve come to prefer larger calibers, specifically the .25 and .30. These calibers offer a meaningful increase in frontal area and retained energy, which translates directly into cleaner, more decisive hits. Jackrabbits are not particularly fragile animals; they’re big and capable of covering ground at impressive speed. A pellet or slug that hits with authority makes all the difference when you’re threading a shot through brush or taking a longer poke across a wash. The .25 is a versatile caliber, flat‑shooting and efficient, while the .30 brings a level of impact that ends the conversation with authority.

Among the rifles I’ve carried, two have risen to the top as my current go‑to jackrabbit guns: the Brocock Ghost .30 and the American Air Arms Sidewinder .30. The Ghost is compact, well‑balanced, and highly tunable. When I’m hiking ridge lines or slipping through mesquite, the Ghost carries well and comes to the shoulder quickly. Its adjustability lets me tailor the power to the projectile being used, whether I’m taking close‑range shots in thick cover or stretching things out across open desert. In .30 caliber, it hits with a satisfying thump that anchors jacks cleanly.

The Sidewinder, on the other hand, is pure precision and power. The semi-auto action delivers fast follow-up with consistency and a level of accuracy that inspires confidence even when the wind is swirling. In .30 caliber, the Sidewinder is a hammer, flat‑shooting, stable, and devastating on impact. When I’m hunting big, wary jacks in the sun-baked back country, this rifle gives me the reach and terminal performance I want.

Ammunition choice matters just as much as rifle choice, and for most of my jackrabbit hunting I still favor a round‑nose Diabolo pellet. The classic waisted shape stabilizes well in flight, and the round nose provides a balance of penetration and controlled expansion. But airgun slugs have earned a place in my kit as well. Their higher ballistic coefficients and heavier weights make them incredibly effective at longer ranges, especially in .30 caliber. When tuned properly, a PCP shooting slugs becomes a long‑range tool that can handle wind and distance far better than traditional pellets.

Hunting jackrabbits with an airgun appeals to me because it turns the pursuit into a precision‑driven, skill‑based hunt rather than a simple shooting exercise. Air rifles require careful stalking, smart shot selection, and an understanding of wind, distance, and terrain. I appreciate how air rifles demand disciplined marksmanship. Jackrabbits are tough, fast, and alert, so every shot must be deliberate.

Categories: .25 caliber, .25 vs .30 caliber, .30 caliber, Airguns of Arizona, american air arms, Brocock, Jackrabbits, offhand shooting, Rabbits, Rattler semi auto air rifle, semi auto air rifle, sidewinder semi auto PCP, Small Game Hunting, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Airguns and Jackrabbits (Part 1)

Posted on July 4, 2026 by Jim Chapman

The jackrabbit belongs to the hare family. Its dark buff fur is flecked with black, and it has long, black-tipped ears and a black stripe running from its rump to the top of its tail. The black-tailed jackrabbit spends much of the day resting in a shallow hollow scratched into the ground, often beneath creosote or other desert scrub. Although it may be seen at any time, it is usually most active from dusk through the night. Jackrabbits are herbivores, feeding on grasses and other greenery. In fall and winter, they rely on mesquite and other woody or dried vegetation, and in especially dry years they may also eat cactus.

Jackrabbits are quite wary and alert to their surroundings, keeping a lookout for coyotes, bobcats, and any other predators large enough to take this big rabbit down. They rely on their speed to elude predators, and when running, they flash the white underside of their tail, alerting other jackrabbits in the area. I have spooked a rabbit, and as he ran off, other jacks started taking off in all directions. In my experience, an adult Jack will let you get to within 20 – 30 yards if you move quietly and in a non-threatening way. I believe these rabbits feel so secure with both their camouflage and ability to outrun danger when they need to, that they will hold until they feel extremely threatened. In the desert, I like to hunt these large hares in the heat of the day, as they tend to hold longer before they bolt. Jackrabbits are very fast and can hit thirty-five miles an hour, jumping over gullies, bushes, and almost anything that gets in their way.

Black-tailed jackrabbits breed year-round and produce one to four litters annually, with as many as eight young in each litter. The young are born alert and active, and within a month they can fend for themselves. I have seen young jackrabbits stay so still in cover that I could step right past them.

Jackrabbits inhabit brushlands, prairies, and deserts across much of the western United States. They favor open or semi-open terrain with plenty of room to run and are common in Southern and Central California, Nevada, Arizona, southeastern Idaho, and western Texas. They are often found in livestock-grazed pastures, where visibility is high and predators can be spotted early. Although they generally avoid dense brush, I have seen a wary old jack slip through thick cover like a whitetail deer evading a hunter.

I hunted jacks in the Mojave Desert for many years with a .177 break-barreled springer. This trip, I was using the Beeman C1 .177

I presently live in the Midwest and usually hunt cottontails now, but for years I lived in Southern California and hunted black-tailed jackrabbits almost exclusively in the Mojave Desert and the Northern slopes of the San Bernardino Mountains. Back in the day, I hunted them in Orange groves along the coastal area of California, but found it hard to consistently get within airgun range in this terrain.  I have also hunted them in Arizona, Nevada, Colorado, Texas, Kansas, Utah, and New Mexico with many different air rifles, primarily with PCPs in recent years, but have taken a fair share with my springers as well.

The jackrabbit is one of my favorite airgun game species because it is large, wary, and fast. I hunt them much like big game, using binoculars to glass, spot, and stalk before taking a shot. My usual approach is to move slowly through broad desert washes, scanning the low hillsides for a rabbit bedded in a shallow depression. If there is enough cover at the base of the hill, I ease in to about 40 or 50 yards, moving in short intervals and pausing often. I avoid a direct approach because, in my experience, jackrabbits quickly recognize it as a threat and run sooner. When possible, I prefer to shoot from a sitting position, though it has two drawbacks: from ground level, a clear shooting lane can be difficult unless I am above the rabbit on a hillside, and after sitting on cholla cactus or yucca a few times, I have learned to choose my seat carefully.

We’re running out of time and space for this weeks post, but I’ll pick it back up next week. See you then!

 

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Camouflage for Airgun Hunters

Posted on May 19, 2026 by Jim Chapman

I’ve been asked about wearing camouflage when airgun hunting, and whether it makes a significant difference. Much of the quarry that airgun hunters pursue have well-developed eyesight, such as squirrels and woodchucks. Real-world experience has convinced me that going into the woods in full camouflage for these species greatly improves my success rate. Some years ago, when I started hunting tree squirrels after moving to the Midwest, I found that I’d see squirrels at a distance, but not within shooting range. I’d move slowly, sit and wait, and my results were just OK, but not great. Then one winter, while deer hunting and wearing camo, I noticed that squirrels would sometimes just about run over me. So, after getting my buck that season, I decided to go back out for squirrel, wearing full camo with a face mask and gloves. That was the first time I limited out on these wary rodents. After this, I started to camo up on all my outings and noticed that my game bags were filling up. And with squirrels in particular, I found that wearing camo gloves and a mask consistently upped my success. This makes sense when you think of how much your hands move, uncovered; it’s like you’re waving a flag to warn every critter within eyeshot that you’re stalking them. Much of the time, the hunter is looking up into the trees, and an uncovered face also stands out like a beacon warning of danger.

Camo does give you an edge when hunting quarry with keen eyesight. I’m out for spring squirrel here.

Methods of hunting and the species being pursued will influence the camo/no-camo decision. For instance, when hunting squirrel, crow, turkey, predators, and deer, I usually wear full camo. These animals all see well and are easily spooked. On the other hand, I have not observed that it makes much difference when hunting rabbits, feral hogs, javelina, or prairie dogs. It should be noted that when not wearing camo, my clothing is still muted earth tones (browns, greens, khaki) that somewhat blend with the terrain. Hogs and javelina rely more on their sense of hearing or smell to detect sources of danger, whereas prairie dogs and rabbits seem to focus more on movement and range. So long as you’re not in bright or contrasting colors and moving a lot, you will probably be OK.

A white camo jump suit will make the hunter disappear into the landscape.

Of course, even if you choose not to wear camo, it makes sense to match your clothing to the conditions you’ll be hunting. If I’m going to stalk hogs in the thickets or African plains game in the veld, I’m fine with earth tone colors and wear gloves to protect my hands rather than to hide them. When stalking through the heavy growth, it is noise and smell that will blow the hunt, and playing the wind while using shadows and cover to approach is more important. However, if calling predators, I worry about being spotted as much as being scented, and go full camo.

Some times slipping on a camo hoodie, face make, and gloves is good enough. Covering the hands and face are critical in squirrel hunting.

There are several options for camouflage; most sporting goods stores that carry hunting gear will offer a selection. Pants, a long-sleeved T-shirt, gloves, a face mask, and a hat can be purchased for around $100 in several patterns to suit most terrain. You can spend a fortune on very expensive camo, but honestly, so long as it breaks up your pattern and isn’t a completely different color scheme, it probably doesn’t matter very much. Another option that I quite like (especially for summer/spring hunts) is a 3D camo made from lightweight bug-proof mesh. Besides protecting me from mosquitoes and other entomological nasties, it allows street clothes to be worn on site and the suit slipped over when it’s time to hunt.

So, do I think camo is necessary? Yes and no, it depends on the situation.  In general, there is no downside to wearing camo. In some places that I hunt, I don’t want to be decked out head to toe in camo, as it stands out too much. And if I’m running out for a quick afternoon small game hunt, it’s often more convenient to throw on a camo sweatshirt with hat and gloves. But if a serious hunt for turkey, deer, or predators is on the table, I will most often go the extra mile and suit up in camo.

Of course, another related question is, how important is it to camouflage guns and other gear … but we can save that for another day!

Categories: camo, camo clothing, coyote, crow hunting, Hog hunting, Prairie dogs, Predator hunting, Rabbits, turkey, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

What Makes A Great Urban Hunting Rig?

Posted on May 19, 2026 by Jim Chapman

One application in which I think airguns are the best practical choice is pest control in urban areas. This is the type of shooting that calls for pigeons to be culled from under the roof of an industrial building or clearing rabbits off of a suburban golf course. In both cases these pests can have a negative health and or economic impact, and need to be removed. While the shooting environments can vary widely, there are some common threads: the need for precision, minimal but effective power, reduced noise levels, compact and discreet gun designs, and high shot count are applicable to most situations.

This urban dairy farm has equipment, buildings, livestock, and workers, and you urban shooting rig needs to be up to the task!

The optimal urban hunting gun is one that it is accurate enough to precisely place a pellet in a ½” kill zone at the required range, and is powerful enough to ensure a clean kill. The gun should be capable of surgical precision out to thirty to forty yards. I’ve been shooting a few different guns that fall into the category of urban hunters which I’ll discuss later in this post. All of these guns are capable of shooting ragged one-hole 35-yard groups all day long. With respect to energy output, note that the earlier statement was “powerful enough”; often this type of shooting takes place in close confines, so a magnum power output is not necessarily a beneficial quality. You are often hunting around industrial equipment or buildings, and don’t want a missed shot or over penetration to cause damage to either. For shooting pigeons or English sparrows around an industrial facility, a .177 at 650 fps is more than enough gun. A gun that has an adjustable power setting is an asset for urban hunting.

The reason a compact or take-down design is a positive attribute is that the urban hunter will want to move into their shoot without drawing a great deal of attention to themselves. One of the places I did rabbit control was a nursery located near an industrial park. To get back to the nursery area, I had to park in a lot shared by the nursery and one of the office buildings. Walking along with a full-sized rifle tucked under my arm was not going to work. I have a few rifles that allow me to throw the gun in a backpack, walk onto my shoot, assemble the gun and do my shooting, break it down, and head back out to the car afterwards.

 

The Ranger is accurate, compact, and quiet

An example of a great urban hunting rig is the ultra-compact Brocock Ranger. The Ranger’s folding stock allows it to collapse to extremely small dimensions, down to roughly 17” depending on configuration, making it easy to transport in a small backpack or even a laptop bag. Weighing in at 5.5 lbs, it is one of the lightest full‑power hunting rifles available, ideal for navigating tight spaces like alleys, garages, attics, and backyards.

The gun is capable of generating up to 20 fpe, but includes a multi‑step power adjustment, allowing shooters to tune the rifle for low‑power shots in residential areas or higher power for tougher pests.  The ability to dial down power allows shooters to avoid over‑penetration while still delivering quick and efficient kills. The removable moderator and regulated action help keep the rifle very quiet, a major advantage when working in noise‑sensitive environments.

Adjustable power allows gun to be tailored to a specific application.

Accuracy is always important, but perhaps more so in a compact urban rig. The Ranger uses a match‑grade barrel paired with a Huma‑regulated floating hammer system, producing consistent velocities and tight groups for precision shot placement around buildings, equipment, and workers.  I find the Ranger an excellent option for pigeons, rats, ground squirrels, and iguanas, and have used it extensively in industrial, agricultural, and suburban settings.

 

Backpack ready with stock folded, it is quick to deploy when it’s time for action.

The Ranger provides the performance of a full sized gun. in an Ultra-compact package!

So, to summarize, the urban hunting gun should be compact, have the appropriate power level (not too much not too little), and have a low sound signature. With the right gun, the urban hunter/pest controller will have access to pest shooting areas not available to larger, louder, and more powerful gun. This will, in turn, open many shooting opportunities in areas where other options might be scarce.

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Airgun Hunting: Pros and Cons of Hunting Hogs from a Blind

Posted on May 19, 2026 by Jim Chapman

In general, my preferred method of hunting is still hunting or spot and stalk, where I am on the ground and moving. I enjoy working through the landscape to find my quarry, then getting into range for the shot. That’s what drew me to airguns in the first place, the emphasis on hunting skill in addition to shooting. But there are situations in which the use of a blind can be the best way to go, and when I am hunting feral hogs in Texas, I will often use a blind to supplement pounding the ground.

Sitting in the blind with my Rattler .357, waiting for the hogs to come in.

Hunting hogs with an air rifle from a blind offers a unique approach to this challenging pursuit, but it comes with trade-offs. Ground blinds can be camouflaged with vegetation, making them harder for hogs to detect. This animal does not have the greatest vision in the animal world, but it’s not as bad as often stated. But managing scent is especially important since hogs have an excellent sense of smell and can detect human scent from a mile away. Proper placement downwind of expected hog movement is necessary to avoid being winded.

Blinds allow you to set up in prime hog activity areas — near wallows, feeders, or water sources — without being exposed to direct animal contact. Blinds are often set up near feeders in Texas, and a good airgun blind should be within 75 yards, in my opinion. They should also be positioned so that access points to the draw, whether feeder, water, or transit points, can be monitored.

From a blind, you can wait quietly for hogs to approach, using food and water to lure them in. My typical approach at several of the ranches I hunt is to sit a blind in the morning before daybreak or at dusk, to catch hogs moving between bedding and feeding areas. Then I go out on foot during the daylight hours to stalk them in the bush, using my eyes, ears, and nose to find them bedded down.

There are challenges and limitations to using ground blinds, most designs have blind spots, either inherent in the design or due to location requirements, which can make it hard to see hogs approaching from some angles. You will frequently see animals that walk by or hang up outside of shooting range or are in a position where you do not have a clear shooting lane. The most difficult issue to deal with when hunting from a blind with an air rifle is wind direction. If the wind shifts, your scent can be carried toward approaching hogs, alerting them to your presence.

I anchored this boar with the Rattler, at 65 yards.

Now, let’s address the 800lb gorilla in the room: Is this really hunting? It is not as demanding as putting boots on the ground to locate, approach, and bag your quarry. But to be fair, when I go out stalking through a thicket in Texas when it’s 90 degrees in the shade and 90% humidity, I appreciate that not everybody can, or wants to, put themselves through this. Also, when people are hunting a new property where they are not familiar with game movement, property lines, hazards, etc, a blind becomes much more practical. On a working ranch, many landowners don’t want someone roaming their property with a rifle when they have equipment, buildings, or workers moving about. Additionally, in many areas, feral pigs may roam widely, and the most practical way to get a shot, especially for the hunter who only has a couple of days to hunt, is to draw them in. It’s up to the individual to determine what type of hunt they want, a pig down is a pig down, and sausage in the freezer is sausage in the freezer!

Airgun hunting hogs from a blind is very effective effective in areas where pigs can be drawn in, but it demands careful setup, wind management, and awareness of your surroundings. A blind can be a good choice depending on the hunter and the situation. I would say that hunting with an airguns increases the challenge in comparison to a typical firearm, falling somewhere between archery and firearms in terms of challenge. However, if you prefer mobility, quick shot opportunities, or don’t have access to suitable blind sites, other methods may be more practical.

Categories: Big Bore Airguns, Big Game, Hog hunting, Rattler semi auto air rifle, sidewinder semi auto PCP, Uncategorized | Leave a comment