Why I Prefer Small‑Game Hunting With an Airgun

Posted on October 3, 2026 by Jim Chapman

Small‑game hunting has been part of my outdoor life for over 50 years. I’ve chased rabbits and squirrels with everything from rimfires to shotguns, but over the decades, airguns have become my go‑to tool. Not because they’re trendy or because I spend my days reviewing them, but because they genuinely make me a better hunter. When I slip into the woods with an air rifle slung over my shoulder, it feels like I’m stepping into the purest form of the sport.

Squirrel hunting is the core of small game hunting for me. Lots of tragets, evolving hunting conditions and techniques, varied opportunites.

A Hunt Built on Skill, Not Noise: One of the reasons I gravitate toward airguns is simple: they demand skill. Small‑game animals are quick, wary, and unforgiving of sloppy shooting. When you’re carrying a PCP rifle, you don’t have the luxury of a wide pattern or a high‑powered rimfire to bail you out. You have a single, precisely placed pellet.

That’s the kind of hunting I enjoy. Airguns force me to slow down, read the terrain, watch the wind, and make decisions based on fundamentals. I’m constantly judging distance, adjusting for holdover, and threading shots through tight openings. Every trigger pull is earned.

And the beauty of small‑game hunting is repetition. You might get one chance at a whitetail in a season, but you’ll get dozens of opportunities at rabbits or squirrels in a single morning. Each one sharpens your skills. Each one teaches you something. Airguns turn the woods into a classroom, and I’ve never stopped learning.

Quiet Tools for Real‑World Hunting: Modern airguns are quiet—quiet enough that I can hunt on small properties, around livestock, or near homes without disturbing anyone. That opens doors rimfires simply can’t. I’ve hunted dairy farms where the landowner didn’t want the cattle spooked. I’ve hunted orchards where firearm discharge wasn’t allowed. I’ve hunted suburban edges where a loud report would shut the whole place down. An airgun lets me do the job cleanly, safely, and respectfully. And that quiet shot has another advantage: it doesn’t blow out the woods. I can take a squirrel from a tree, and the one on the next ridge barely reacts. Rabbits don’t bolt for the county line. The hunt continues naturally, and that’s something I value.

Mobility Matters: I spend a lot of time hiking into properties, slipping through brush, or covering ground on an e‑bike. Airguns, especially compact PCPs, fit that lifestyle perfectly. A lightweight rifle is easy to carry all day. It doesn’t snag on branches or weigh me down when I’m climbing over deadfall. When I’m kayaking into a remote spot, I can stow it without worrying about banging a long barrel against the hull. The gun becomes part of the adventure, not a burden. Mobility changes how you hunt. You explore more. You see more. You get into pockets of habitat most hunters never reach. Airguns make that possible.

Ethical, Effective, and Predictable: There’s a misconception among non‑airgunners that airguns are toys. Anyone who’s hunted with a modern PCP knows better. With the right caliber and projectile, an airgun is a surgical tool for small game. I’ve taken rabbits cleanly at over 70 yards with a .25 PCP. I’ve anchored fox squirrels with a .22 pellet placed exactly where it needed to go. The accuracy is phenomenal, and the controlled power reduces the risk of over‑penetration or ricochets, something I’m always mindful of when hunting around structures or livestock. Ethics matter to me. I want quick, humane kills. Airguns give me that. When I squeeze the trigger, I know what the gun will do. That consistency builds trust, and trust is everything in the field.

Airgun hunting feels personal: The quiet shot, the close‑range encounters, the deliberate pace, it all brings me closer to the environment. I hear more. I see more. I notice subtle movements in the grass, faint rustles in the leaves, the way a squirrel pauses before committing to a jump. Big‑game hunting is thrilling, but it’s episodic. Airgun hunting is continuous. From the moment I step into the woods, I’m engaged. Every ridge, every thicket, every shadow might hold a target. The hunt becomes a conversation with the land, not a single question.

Another reason I prefer airguns is accessibility. I can hunt small game close to home, often on properties where firearms aren’t allowed. I can practice in my backyard or at a local range without burning through expensive ammunition. I can hunt year‑round, keeping my skills sharp and my connection to the outdoors strong. It’s sustainable, not just environmentally, but personally. Airgun hunting fits into everyday life. It doesn’t require a tag, a lottery draw, or a week‑long trip. It’s something I can do on a Saturday morning before breakfast or after work as dusk falls..

Tradition Meets Technology
Airgun hunting blends old‑school woodsmanship with modern innovation. Today’s PCP rifles offer regulated actions, precision barrels, high‑capacity magazines, and optics that rival centerfire setups. Yet the hunt itself remains rooted in classic skills: stalking, spotting, patience, and shot placement. It’s the perfect marriage of tradition and technology. I get the satisfaction of hunting the way I did as a kid—quietly, carefully, and with respect for the land—while enjoying the performance of cutting‑edge equipment.

In the End, It’s About Enjoyment
At the end of the day, I prefer small‑game hunting with an airgun because it’s simply enjoyable. It’s challenging without being exhausting, accessible without being simplistic, and rewarding without requiring a tag or a season opener. It keeps me outdoors, keeps me sharp, and keeps me connected to the craft of field shooting.

Whether I’m hiking through Minnesota woods, slipping into a Texas creek bottom, or riding an e‑bike across open pasture, an airgun feels like the right tool in my hands. It brings me back to the basics, skill, patience, and respect for the game, and that’s why I love it.

Categories: airgun hunting, Camping with Airgun, Hunting Guns, Small Game Hunting, Small game in winter, Spring time hunting, Squirrels | Leave a comment

Selecting A Rifle For Long Range Pesting & Vermint Hunting

Posted on October 2, 2026 by Jim Chapman

Setting up a PCP air rifle for long‑range shooting is one of those deep‑dive topics I always enjoy, because it’s where the technical side of airgunning meets the art of fieldcraft. When I think back to my early days shooting the classic rifles of the time, stretching an airgun to 50 or 60 yards felt like a high risk shot. Today, rifles like the BRK Ghost in .30 caliber have completely changed what “long range” means. With the right setup, the Ghost becomes a true precision platform capable of consistent accuracy well past 100 yards, with pellets or slugs. Even further when everything is precisely dialed in.

The modular design and detailed performance settings make the Ghost a solid option for a long range varmint/pest rig rig.

One of the guns I’ve been using for long range shooting is the BRK Ghost, because the modular design lends itself so well to long‑range work. You’re starting with a solid chassis, an adjustable regulator, and a power plant that responds predictably to tuning. In .30 caliber, you also get the advantage of a heavier projectile with a better ballistic coefficient, which is exactly what’s needed when you’re pushing distances. For long‑range shooting, I prefer the longer barrel configuration. The extended barrel gives you more dwell time and more efficient use of air, which translates into higher velocity and better stability with slugs. Once that foundation is set, you can start shaping the rifle’s behavior to match your goals.

Long‑range accuracy begins with consistency, and consistency comes from the regulator and hammer spring working in harmony. On the Ghost, I usually start with the regulator set in the mid‑range for .30 caliber—high enough to drive slugs effectively but not so high that you waste air or introduce turbulence. From there, I adjust the hammer spring until the rifle produces a clean, predictable power curve. This is where the chronograph becomes indispensable. I’ve mentioned it many times before, but if you’re serious about long‑range airgunning, a chronograph isn’t a luxury; it’s a necessity. I’ll shoot strings of twenty or thirty shots, watching for extreme spreads under ten feet per second, and ideally closer to five. When you hit that sweet spot, the rifle tells you immediately through tighter groups and more predictable behavior.

Pellets are efficient and have their place, but once you start pushing past 75 yards, slugs become the tool of choice. The Ghost handles slugs exceptionally well, but you still need to match the slug to the barrel and the tune. In .30 caliber, I’ve had excellent results with slugs in the forty‑four to fifty‑five grain range. Heavier slugs carry energy better and resist wind more effectively, but they also demand more power. Lighter slugs shoot flatter but can be more sensitive to wind. The key is testing. I’ll take several slug weights and shoot groups at fifty, seventy‑five, and one hundred yards. The slug that groups best at one hundred is usually the one that will carry you confidently out to one hundred fifty and beyond. Don’t assume the fastest slug is the best; long‑range shooting rewards stability, not raw speed.

A long‑range PCP setup deserves optics that can keep up. For the Ghost, I like scopes with high magnification, reliable turret tracking, and a reticle that offers meaningful holdover references. Long‑range airgun shooting can involve more dialing and more holdover than powder‑burner shooting at similar distances, if that is your style of adjusting POI in the field. If so, zero‑stop turrets might prove useful, because you’ll be spinning elevation often. Regardless of what scope you select, a clean, intuitive reticle makes life much easier.Once the scope is mounted, make sure everything is torqued properly. A misaligned mount or a loose ring will ruin your day faster than a sudden gust of wind.

I know that from a solid shooting position, this rifle will do those 100-125 yard kill shots on a prarie dog almost every time. I’m the weak link in the chain.

Speaking of wind, it becomes your constant companion on the grassy plains shooting prairie dogs. Even a .30‑caliber slug is a relatively light projectile compared to a centerfire bullet, and wind can become a major factor past seventy‑five yards. I watch grass, leaves, mirage, and even insects to get a sense of what the wind is doing. I’ll often shoot a few “wind probes”—shots intentionally taken to see how the wind behaves at different distances. The Ghost’s consistency helps here, because once you know how your slug drifts at a given wind speed, you can compensate predictably.

Your shooting position matters just as much as your tune. Long‑range shooting rewards discipline, and the Ghost responds well to a stable, repeatable setup. I rely on a solid bipod when shooting prone, or sticks when shooting from a sitting position, and find these are the two positions to be the most useful for long range hunting. Canting the rifle even a few degrees will throw shots wide at long range, and the Ghost’s compact frame makes it easy to keep level, but you still need to check it before every shot. Whether I’m shooting laid out on the ground or sitting, depends on the terrain, but the principle is always the same: build a position you can repeat shot after shot.

Once you have the gun and projectile dialed in, grab your binos, a range finder, shooting sticks or bipods, and you are ready to go!

The BRK Ghost in .30 caliber is one of the most capable long‑range PCP platforms available today. With the right tune, the right slug, and a thoughtful setup, it becomes a rifle that can confidently stretch out to distances that used to be a step too far for airguns. Long‑range shooting isn’t just about hitting far targets—it’s about understanding your rifle, your environment, and your own technique. The right rifle/optic/projectile setup rewards that kind of engagement. When you get it tuned just right, it delivers the kind of long‑range performance that gets field results.

 

Categories: Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Why I think Modular Rifle Designs Resonate with Airgun Hunters.

Posted on September 19, 2026 by Jim Chapman

I’ve been thinking a lot about how far the PCP market has come since my early days running around with my first PCP rifles, the Daystate Huntsman and the Webley Raider. Back then, a PCP was a pretty straightforward tool: pick a caliber, pick a role, and that rifle stayed in its lane. But the modern PCP landscape has changed in a big way, and nowhere is that evolution more obvious than in rifles like the BRK Ghost and the Daystate Black Wolf. These guns mark a new era of modular, multi‑caliber design. They’re built as adaptable platforms that can be reconfigured for just about any hunting scenario you throw at them. For hunters who value versatility, tunability, and long‑term capability, rifles like the Ghost and Black Wolf sit right at the center of a trend that’s redefining expectations across the sport.

The BRK Ghost is one of the most flexible mechanical PCPs on the market today. The whole rifle is built around a tough, well‑engineered chassis that accepts swappable barrels and caliber kits, letting hunters move from .177 to .30 with almost no fuss. That multi‑caliber capability means a single Ghost can be a quiet, efficient pesting rig one day and a high‑power slug launcher the next. With its adjustable regulator and tunable power curve, the Ghost lets me fine‑tune performance for pellets or slugs, low‑power backyard shooting or high‑energy field work. It’s a rifle for guys like me, who like to tinker, dial, experiment, and tailor their setup to the quarry and terrain. And as I mentioned recently, it also makes a chronograph one of the most important tools in your gear bag.

The Daystate Black Wolf takes a different path to modularity than the Ghost. Even though it shares DNA with the electronic Delta Wolf, the Black Wolf is a purely mechanical rifle built for shooters who prefer traditional systems but still want top‑tier performance. It embraces the same modular, multi‑caliber philosophy: rapid barrel changes, quick caliber swaps, and configuration adjustments that let me tailor the rifle to whatever job is at hand. The mechanical regulator lets you tune power through familiar controls: hammer spring tweaks, regulator adjustments, along with everything needed to change caliber and projectile types. It’s a platform that feels intuitive and classic to me, yet still offers the flexibility needed for pellet or slug shooting across a wide range of energy levels. Where the Ghost encourages rugged, hands‑on tuning, the Black Wolf delivers a refined mechanical shooting experience with the same ability to shift roles quickly. I am just getting started with this rifle and am setting it up for an upcoming predator hunt down in Texas.

 

This modular design gives hunters the satisfaction of building a setup that feels uniquely their own. And as slug shooting continues to grow in popularity, the ability to switch barrels, adjust regulators, and tune power curves becomes even more valuable. Pellets and slugs behave very differently, and modular platforms let hunters optimize for both without compromise. At the time of writing the slug barrel for the .30 caliber configuration is in the testing phase, and may already be released.

I’m just getting started with the Black Wolf, but will be trying a number of different configurations with it this year.

Hunters are driving this modular design trend because versatility has become essential. As airgun hunting regulations expand across the United States, shooters want rifles that can adapt to new opportunities without requiring a new purchase every time. A BRK Ghost set up in .22 for rabbits can be reconfigured in .25 or .30 for coyotes or hogs. A Daystate Black Wolf tuned for quiet sub‑12‑foot‑pound pesting can be transformed into a high‑power slug rifle capable of the long‑range precision needed on a prairie dog shoot. This adaptability saves money, reduces the amount of gear you need to haul around, and gives hunters confidence that their rifle can meet whatever challenge comes next.

In the end, the BRK Ghost and Daystate Black Wolf represent where PCP hunting rifles are headed. They’re adaptable, multi‑caliber, tunable platforms that give hunters more capability from a single investment. Whether a shooter prefers the Ghost’s compact ergonomics or the Black Wolf’s refined mechanical precision and full sized stock, both rifles show why modular PCP systems are becoming the new standard. For airgun hunters who want a rifle that can evolve with their needs, these platforms offer unmatched flexibility, performance, and long‑term value.

 

Categories: air slugs, airgun slugs, Airguns of Arizona, BRK air rifles, Brocock, Hunting Guns, modular gun design | Leave a comment

The Air-Powered Archer: Hype or an Effective Hunting Method?

Posted on September 19, 2026 by Jim Chapman

A reader asked me about hunting with an airgun that shoots arrows. It’s been well over a decade since I started hunting with air archery, and I’ve taken deer, hogs, javelina, and exotics with various guns and arrows in that time. I also took an air-powered arrow gun to S. Africa in 2016 and bagged several species of plains game over a 2-week safari. I found air archery to be one of those things that grabs you the first time you try it. I’ve spent decades chasing game with everything from springers to big‑bores, and every so often a new tool comes along that genuinely changes the way you think about airgun hunting. Arrow‑launching airguns fall squarely into that category. They’re accurate, powerful, efficient, and surprisingly capable, and they open up a style of hunting that blends the best parts of archery with the precision and familiarity of airgunning.

On the Stalk with the AirJavelin

As an airgunner, when you pick up one of these rigs, the first thing you notice is how natural it feels. Instead of drawing a bow or cocking a crossbow, you slip a hollow‑shaft arrow over the barrel or into the breech, and you’re ready to hunt. The shot cycle is fast and smooth. There’s no string slap, no limb vibration, no mechanical noise, just a clean push of compressed air sending the arrow downrange. For hunters who value stealth, and the ability to close range with their quarry, this is as good as it gets with a rifle.

Performance is where these systems really shine. Modern big‑bore PCPs can drive arrows at velocities that rival many crossbows, often in the 300–450 fps range depending on arrow weight and gun setup. That translates into excellent penetration and reliable broadhead performance on medium‑sized game. I treat these rigs much like I do a crossbow: keep your shots inside 40–60 yards, know your trajectory, and place your arrow where it needs to go. Within that envelope, accuracy is outstanding. I’ve stacked practice arrows so tightly that I’ve ended up with a four-arrow chain stuck end to end.

Have a javelina in the crosshairs!

One of the things I appreciate most is how accessible this style of hunting is. An airgun arrow setup lets hunters enjoy archery‑style hunting without physical strain or an archer’s skill set. I bow hunt and am OK as an archer, but it was never really a skill I wanted to work hard to develop. The arrow guns can shoot from a rest, from a blind, or off shooting sticks with the same stability you’d expect from a pellet‑shooting PCP. For hunters who already know their way around an airgun, the learning curve is short and enjoyable.

Versatility also appeals to me. Many of the big‑bore rifles that shoot arrows can also shoot pellets or slugs with a simple barrel or breech change. That means one gun can cover small‑game hunting, long‑range target work, and big‑game arrow hunting. I’ve always liked gear that earns its keep, and these multi‑role platforms do exactly that.

javelina are my favorite airgun archery game, and this little Umarex arrowgun did a great job!

Of course, like any hunting tool, arrow‑shooting airguns demand respect and understanding. Shot placement is critical. Broadhead choice matters. Arrow weight affects velocity and penetration. And because you’re working with compressed air, you need to know how your rifle behaves with different fill pressures. None of this is difficult, but it does reward the hunter who takes the time to practice and learn the system. That’s part of the fun for me: becoming a student of the gear, refining the setup, and seeing the results in the field.

What keeps me coming back to these rigs is the experience. There’s something deeply satisfying about slipping through the woods with a quiet, compact airgun that launches arrows with authority. It’s a close‑range, hands‑on style of hunting that forces you to read the terrain, understand the wind, and get inside the animal’s world. When everything comes together, the stalk, the shot, the recovery, it delivers the same primal satisfaction you get from traditional archery, but with the precision and familiarity of an airgun.

Over the last couple of years, I’ve used the Umarex lineup of arrow-launching airguns quite a bit; I like them because they’re practical, reliable, and clearly designed with real hunters in mind. The AirSaber, AirJavelin, and AirJavelin Pro each offer dependable accuracy, smooth operation, and enough power for ethical close‑range hunting, all in lightweight, easy‑to‑carry packages. They’re straightforward tools, budget friendly, no gimmicks, no unnecessary complexity, just well‑built airguns that launch arrows with authority and hold up in the field.

If you’re an airgunner looking to expand your horizons, or a bowhunter curious about a new approach, arrow‑shooting airguns offer a compelling, capable, and downright enjoyable way to hunt. They’re innovative without being gimmicky, practical without being complicated, and effective when used responsibly. Does air archery replace my regular big-bore rifle lineup? No, not even close, but after years of carrying them in the field, I can say they’ve earned a place in my hunting kit, and they might earn a place in yours too.

 

Categories: Airgun Expedition, airgun hunting, arrow gun, arrows, Big Game, javalina hunting | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Out with the Brocock Commander!

Posted on September 18, 2026 by Jim Chapman

It was still several weeks before the deer, turkey, and javalina seasons starts down at my regular haunts in Texas. But I decided to take the trip down, scout the properties where I’d be doing a mule deer hunt just a couple months later, and maybe get a chance at some small game, predators, and a feral hog or two.

Sighting in before heading out to hunt!

50-yard 10-shot group… and we’re good to go!

My drive to the ranch was about 19 hours, and I stopped to sleep in my car on the way. I don’t fly because, with the mountain of gear I carry for a one-week trip, there is no easy or cost-effective way to ship it all. The reason I don’t stay overnight in a hotel along the way is also related to all that gear:  I’ve got thousands of dollars’ worth of guns, cameras, and miscellaneous gear in my car. It’s too much to drag into a hotel room, and I worry about it sitting alone overnight in the car to a point that I’m unable to sleep. So, I become car dweller for a night!

I made it down to the ranch in the early afternoon of the second day, and after unloading my baggage, I grabbed the .25 caliber Brocock Commander XR and headed over to the bench to check zero. It was a windy day, gusting up to 20 mph and constantly changing directions on me, but the gun was still able to print solid 10 shot 50-yard groups. What really amazed me, though, was the shot-to-shot consistency. I ran several 20-shot strings before topping off the tank, and the rifle kept all pellets between 851-857 fps over 80 shots! Once I was satisfied the gun was on, I put it away and got ready for a nighttime predator hunt.

The next morning, I was up at daybreak, had a fast breakfast of scrambled eggs, chorizo, tortillas, and home-made salsa washed down with some steaming hot coffee, loaded up my gear and hit the road. About two miles back, along one of the ranch roads, I always see a lot of rabbits when I head out early to hunt deer. I thought this would be a good place to start.

As I drove, I started seeing jackrabbits sprinting across the road. I made a mental note of where I’d last seen the rabbit slowing down or coming to a stop. I hopped out of the car and started slowly stalking into the general area, using the surrounding brush to cover my approach, stopping frequently to scan ahead through the foliage. I try to locate rabbits laying low with their ears scanning for sound. These big desert hares are secure enough in their camouflage and speed, that if you use cover and stay quiet it’s possible to get in close.

There are three telltale signs I look for while moving in; first I look for the ears standing tall and twitching as they scan the area for sound. This usually means the rabbit is on alert and it won’t take much to push them. When this happens, they are usually gone but will sometimes stop after 30-40 yards and look back offering a last chance for a shot. The next sign is looking for a pitch-black eye watching from inside a clump of brush. A rabbit can be right in front of you, and its fur blends into its surrounding, but that eye stands out! And the last “tell” is looking for the gentle motion of the fur being ruffled by a light breeze. If it’s too windy everything is moving (leaves, branches, and dust), but when conditions are right the fur moves in a way distinct from these other sources.

The Commander performed very well indeed! It’s no secret that I am a fan of Brocock rifles/carbines/semi-bullpups, depending on your choice of nomenclature. I’ve always found the Brocock guns compact and a great carry for those long hikes through the desert. But with Brococks alignment with Daystate, the Compatto signified a new era and a jump in accuracy, power, and brought a fast-cycling smooth action to the table.

The Commander stands out as a hunting gun in my opinion. The side lever action is smooth as silk, ergonomic, and I can cycle the gun very quickly. The accuracy is also a standout, and I feel very comfortable shooting this rifle off sticks at 50-75 yards, and further with a more solid rest. The point is that I am the limiting factor in this shooting equation. And it hits hard! The impact of a 33.95 grain JSB Exact King pellet moving at 830 fps results in an impressive terminal performance on small to medium sized game.

Categories: .25 caliber, airgun hunting, BRK air rifles, Brocock, brocock air rifles, brocock commnder, Jackrabbits | Leave a comment

My Preference for Hunting: FFP or SFP Scopes?

Posted on September 18, 2026 by Jim Chapman

Choosing the right scope for a hunting airgun is a frequently asked question, particularly as it relates to the use of first focal plane scopes. Some of the guys I hunt with prefer first focal plane (FFP) scopes, while others believe that second focal plane (SFP) optics are the most practical choice. Based on my experience, I like both, but it depends on the application and the gun: for most of the hunting airgun setups I use for stalking or still hunting, an SFP scope is the better, more useful option. Still, there are specific situations, especially long-range slug shooting with powerful PCP rifles, where I feel the FFP scope becomes the superior tool. This is based on how airgunners use their scopes in the field, not how centerfire shooters use theirs.

I use a Hawke AirMax SFP scope on my Bushbuck Carbine, as I use this as a close-to-mid-range gun for big, heavy game.

The core difference between FFP and SFP scopes is simple but important. In an FFP scope, the reticle changes size as you adjust magnification. This means your holdover marks remain accurate at every magnification level, whether you’re shooting at 6× or 24×. In contrast, an SFP scope keeps the reticle the same size no matter what magnification you’re using. The trade-off is that your holdover marks are only accurate at one magnification, usually the highest power. While this difference matters on paper, it doesn’t always matter in the real-world conditions airgun hunters face.

I use the MTC King Cobra on my BRK Ghost .30 for both long-range prairie dog shoots and spot and stalk, but more for the longer range work.

Most airgun hunting takes place inside 20 to 80 yards, often in woods, barns, brush, or mixed cover. At these distances, hunters rarely shoot at high magnification. Instead, they typically operate between 3× and 10×, where field of view and target acquisition matter far more than precision holdovers. This is where SFP scopes shine. Because the reticle stays bold and visible at low magnification, it’s easier to pick up your target quickly, especially in low light or against dark fur. FFP reticles shrink at low power, sometimes becoming so fine that they’re difficult to see. When you’re trying to settle a shot on a moving rabbit or squirrel, a thin reticle is the last thing you want.

SFP scopes also offer a cleaner, less cluttered sight picture, which helps hunters track moving game and make quick shots inside 50 yards. They tend to be lighter, more affordable, and simpler, which makes them ideal for the practical realities of airgun hunting. For the average hunter, these advantages matter far more than the theoretical precision benefits of an FFP scope.

An Aztec SFP sits on my .30 caliber prophet, which is another of my long range rigs. But this scope can be ordered in either a SFP or FFP version.

That said, FFP scopes do have their place in the airgun world. They shine in long-range airgun hunting, typically between 80 and 150 yards, where exact holdovers matter and magnification changes are frequent, such as a prairie dog shoot on the wide-open prairies of S. Dakota. If you’re shooting slugs from a high-power PCP like a Daystate Red Wolf or Brocock Ghost, especially at velocities between 900 and 1000 feet per second, an FFP scope can be a real advantage. The ability to maintain accurate holdovers at any magnification is extremely valuable when you’re pushing the limits of airgun ballistics and stretching shots past 100 yards. Precision pest control at farms or dairies also benefits from the consistency an FFP reticle provides.

Your own hunting style plays a major role in determining which scope is best. Setting aside prairie dogs and groundhogs, my typical hunting ranges fall between 20 and 70 yards, often in mixed cover, targeting rabbits, squirrels, and similar game. That’s classic airgun hunting territory, and for that style, an SFP scope is the better tool. If your hunts are more toward long-range slug shooting or precision pest control, then an FFP scope becomes the smarter choice. But for the hunting you do now, SFP offers the visibility, speed, and simplicity that matters most.

 

There’s also a less obvious insight that many shooters overlook. Airguns have steep trajectories, so your holdovers change dramatically with distance. On paper, that makes FFP sound perfect. But FFP only helps if you shoot at high magnification all the time. Most hunters don’t. At 6× in the woods, an FFP reticle becomes so thin it’s almost invisible. That’s the real reason SFP dominates airgun hunting: not because FFP is bad, but because FFP is built for precision, not practicality when you’re on the move in the woods.

In the end, the choice is straightforward. For airgun hunting between 20 and 80 yards, SFP is the better choice for me. For long-range shooting, slug work, and precision pest control, FFP takes the lead. Choose based on how you actually hunt, not how centerfire shooters use their optics.

I use a lot of scopes from MTC, Hawke, and Aztec, all of which give airgun shooters solid options in both SFP and FFP configurations. Each brand leans toward different strengths. MTC’s airgun-centric designs, such as the MTC Viper and Mamba ranges, are mostly SFP, built around crisp glass, fine reticles, and reliable turret tracking that suits precision pellet and slug shooting at known distances. Hawke offers the widest spread, with SFP models dominating their Airmax and Sidewinder lines for benchrest and target work, while their tactical-style Frontier FFP scopes provide consistent subtensions for shooters who mix hunting, PRS-style airgun matches, or long-range pesting. Aztec’s Emerald series stays firmly in the SFP camp, designed specifically for high-magnification airgun use with ultra-thin reticles that won’t obscure very small target areas (i.e. head shots on a PD at 120 yards). Across all three brands, SFP remains the preferred choice for most hunters.

Categories: scope, scope Hawke | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Mastering Field Shooting Positions: Practical Stability When the Moment Counts

Posted on August 5, 2026 by Jim Chapman

 

Standing, either offhand or braced, is the least stable but most frequently used field position.

An almost universal truth is that when most of us set up our rifle and zero it in for the hunt, we do so from the bench. But experienced hunters know the truth: the field rarely gives you the perfect shot. You may plan to settle into a rock‑solid benchrest position, but real hunting situations usually don’t work that way. Terrain, brush, time pressure, and the unpredictable behavior of game animals all conspire to make the “ideal” shooting position a rarity. More often than not, you’re forced to adapt, and do so rapidly!

Over decades of hunting in varied terrain, from high desert washes to thick northern woods, I’ve learned that most of my shots come from a standing or kneeling position. I love the stability of sitting or lying prone, but those positions often require time and space and are often not possible with tall grass or ground cover between you and the target. When it’s time to take the shot, you work with what the land gives you. And the more comfortable you are with each field position, the more confident you’ll be when the crosshairs settle, and the opportunity is in the moment.

If you asked a dozen experienced woodland hunters which position they use most often, the majority would say standing, either offhand or braced. It’s the quickest stance to assume, it clears brush better than anything else, and it allows you to cover a wide area without losing mobility. But it’s also the least stable. Standing offhand is a fleeting position; you can hold it for so long before muscle fatigue starts to wobble your sight picture.

To get the most out of standing, start with your feet placed roughly 90 degrees to the target. This creates a natural, balanced platform. For right-handed shooters, raise the rifle butt firmly into your right shoulder, then settle your cheek onto the stock. This cheek weld is critical as it helps to lock your head in place and keeps your sight alignment consistent.

Breathing matters here more than in any other position. Take a couple of quick breaths, let half of the last one out, and hold. That brief pause is your shooting window. Wrap your trigger hand around the pistol grip, settle your finger gently on the trigger, and make sure your eye isn’t too close to the scope. I was tracking a baboon in S. Africa, using a .50-caliber big-bore PCP to follow him up a hillside. I was shooting offhand, and when he made a brief pause on his upward climb, I quickly pulled the trigger without taking the time to lock in my position. The rifle kicked straight back, hitting me full in the face, and I spent the next several days with a discolored ring around my right eye. Some say that scope bite is a rite of passage but once is enough.

Standing is a quick position to take, lets you move quickly, and allows shots over ground cover.

In open country, especially high desert, finding a natural rest can be nearly impossible. I’ve gotten into the habit of carrying shooting sticks everywhere I hunt. They turn a shaky offhand stance into a workable, controlled shot. Even a single‑leg monopod can make a world of difference when the wind picks up, and your heart is pounding.

If I could choose only one field position for the rest of my hunting life, I’d pick sitting. It’s stable, natural, and surprisingly adaptable. Sitting gives you a solid platform without the sprawl of prone, and it’s far more forgiving than standing. The downside is that dropping into a sitting position can spook game if you’re not careful. Movement is your enemy, and sitting requires more of it than kneeling or standing.

To assume a proper sitting stance, angle your body about 90 degrees to the target. Bring your left foot close to your body and let the knee rise. Curl your right foot toward your left side, raising the right knee just enough to support your posture. This creates a tripod of sorts; your two knees and your backside form a stable base.

Shoulder the rifle as you normally would but rest your left elbow on your left knee. This simple contact point transforms your stability. The elbow‑to‑knee connection creates a rigid triangle that absorbs movement and steadies your sight picture. Hunters often underestimate how much stability comes from this single adjustment.

Sitting also pairs beautifully with shooting sticks. A set of lightweight collapsible sticks can turn a good sitting position into an excellent one. As I have mentioned in other blog posts, I rely on the Primos Polecat shooting sticks as they are stable and compact, yet quick to deploy. In tall grass or low brush, sitting gives you just enough elevation to see clearly while still keeping your profile low. Just watch where you are sitting. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve sat on a cactus or sharp rock when quickly dropping to my backside.

Kneeling is a variation on sitting, but it’s faster to assume and better suited for situations where you need a little more height. If you’re trying to shoot over grass, sage, or low brush, kneeling often gives you the perfect compromise between speed and stability.

Drop your right knee to the ground and keep your left knee raised. Place the elbow of your leading arm on your left knee. This creates a stable rest similar to the sitting position but with more elevation. Kneeling also allows you to pivot quickly, which can be a lifesaver when game animals don’t follow your script.

Add shooting sticks to the kneeling position and you’ll be surprised how steady it becomes. The combination of elbow‑to‑knee support and a forward rest can rival the stability of sitting, especially if the terrain is uneven or rocky.

Nothing beats prone for pure accuracy. It’s the steadiest field position by far, and when you can use it, your confidence skyrockets. But prone is also the hardest position to assume without making noise or losing sight of your quarry. In desert country, prone comes with another challenge: you never really know what you’re lying on. Rocks, cactus spines, and fire ants have a way of reminding you that the ground is not always your friend.

When cresting a rise, shooting into a wash, or glassing from a ridge, the prone position is hard to beat. Lie flat with the rifle in front of you and angle your body slightly to the right of the target line. Place your left elbow forward of your torso and tuck your right elbow slightly closer in. Your rifle and upper body should be supported by these two points of contact.

Pull the rifle into your shoulder with your left hand, settle your cheek on the stock, and wrap your right hand around the pistol grip. This position is enhanced by using a rest; your pack, a rolled jacket, or even a flat rock can make a huge difference. Shooting sticks don’t help much here, but a bipod is hard to beat. In fact, a good bipod can turn prone into a near‑benchrest experience. About the only time I mount a bipod to my rifle is for long-range prairie dog shooting in the flat open grasslands.

Prone forces you to think carefully about your surroundings. In desert terrain, you may be lying on sand, gravel, or thorny vegetation. In mountain country, you may be on uneven ground or loose shale. Always take a quick glance before dropping prone; you don’t want to discover a rattlesnake or a patch of cholla the hard way. I know this is a recurring theme, but I speak from a lot of painful experiences.

Field shooting is improvisation. The more comfortable you are with each position, standing, sitting, kneeling, and prone, the more confident you’ll be when the moment of truth arrives. Practice them all. Don’t just shoot from a bench or a controlled environment. Get out into the field, find uneven ground, shoot uphill and downhill, and learn how your body and rifle behave under real conditions.

The terrain won’t ask your preference. It will force you to adapt. And when the crosshairs settle and your breathing steadies, the hours you’ve spent mastering these positions will pay off in the only currency that matters in hunting: clean, ethical, confident shots.

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Shooting Uphill or Into a Tree: The Ballistics Every Squirrel Hunter Needs to Know

Posted on August 4, 2026 by Jim Chapman

Spend a day in the squirrel woods and you’ll learn quickly that most of your shots won’t be level. In fact, if you hunt the Midwest hardwoods long enough, you’ll go entire mornings without a single ground shot. Every fox squirrel seems to be halfway up a hickory, and every gray squirrel seems to be clinging to the underside of a branch like a feather‑weight acrobat. That means you’re shooting steeply uphill, often at odd angles, and usually while trying to thread a pellet through a maze of twigs.

My first season of serious squirrel hunting taught me this lesson the hard way. I’d spent years plinking on level ground, punching paper at 25 and 30 yards, and getting pretty confident with my zero. But confidence evaporates fast when you’re missing squirrels that seem like chip shots. I’d aim dead‑on at a broadside fox squirrel 30 yards up a maple, squeeze the trigger, and watch the pellet sail over its back. I’d adjust, aim lower, and still miss. It drove me crazy until I finally dug into the physics behind uphill and downhill shooting. What I learned changed the way I hunt, and it might change the way you shoot too.

In the squirrel woods, a high percentage of shoots will be up into the trees or down into valleys and hillsides.

A lot of shooters assume that shooting uphill makes the pellet drop more, and shooting downhill makes it drop less. It feels intuitive. If you’re shooting uphill, the pellet must be fighting gravity more, right? And if you’re shooting downhill, gravity must be helping it along.

But that’s not how gravity works on a projectile. Firearms hunters have studied this problem for decades, especially those who hunt in steep mountain country. Their findings apply perfectly to air rifles and pellets. The truth is simple: At the same slant distance, the pellet’s vertical drop is the same whether you shoot level, uphill, or downhill.

That means: The pellet does not slow down faster when shooting uphill, the pellet does not speed up when shooting downhill, and gravity pulls on the pellet the same way no matter the angle. So why do we miss high on both uphill and downhill shots? Because the pellet’s horizontal distance is shorter than the slant distance you’re ranging.

 

Garvity only cares about horizontal distance. This is the key concept. Gravity acts straight down, perpendicular to the earth. It doesn’t care about the slope you’re shooting on. It only affects the pellet over the horizontal distance it travels.

When you range a squirrel 30 yards up a tree, that’s the slant range—the straight‑line distance between you and the target. But the pellet doesn’t “feel” that entire 30 yards. It only “feels” the horizontal component of that distance.

This is where trigonometry comes in. Think back to rhe Cosine Rule, in which the horizontal distance is equal to: Horizontal Range = Slant Range × Cosine(Angle). Let’s plug in real numbers. Your rifle is zeroed at 30 yards. You range a squirrel at a 30‑yard slant distance. The squirrel is sitting at a 30‑degree angle above you and the cosine(30°) = 0.87. So, the  Horizontal Range = 30 × 0.87 = 26 yards

Your pellet behaves exactly as if you were shooting 26 yards on level ground, not 30. If you aim using your 30‑yard zero, your pellet will strike high, because you’re over‑holding for the actual horizontal distance. This is why both uphill and downhill shots hit high. The slant range is always longer than the horizontal range, and your pellet drop is based only on the horizontal distance.

For a real-woods example, picture this: You’re walking a ridge and spot a gray squirrel perched on a limb 25 yards away—slant distance. The angle is steep, maybe 35 degrees. You shoulder your rifle, settle the crosshairs, and squeeze. You miss high.

Why? Because the pellet only traveled the horizontal equivalent of about 20 yards. Your 25‑yard zero is too much hold for that shorter horizontal distance. Now imagine the same squirrel downhill on a creek bank. Same slant distance, same angle. You aim dead‑on again. You miss high again. Different direction, same physics.

Squirrel hunting is full of steep angles. In flat farmland you might get more level shots, but in mature hardwoods—especially oaks, hickories, and walnuts—squirrels spend most of their time above eye level. And when mast is heavy, they’re practically glued to the canopy.

That means most of your shots are uphill, many are steep uphill, some are downhill across ravines or creek bottoms, but almost none are perfectly level when hunting in the woods or canyon areas. If you don’t understand angle shooting, you’ll miss more often than you should.

When shooting downhill, the same rules apply.

Here’s the tricky part: In the woods, you rarely know the exact angle or slant distance. You’re not pulling out a rangefinder and protractor while a squirrel is flicking its tail at you. So you need a rule of thumb. My general rule of thumb is that if the shot is uphill or downhill—even slightly—aim lower than your normal point of aim. How much lower depends on: your rigs zero distance, the steepness of the angle, the slant range, and the pellet’s trajectory

But here’s a practical guideline: At 20–35 yards, most uphill or downhill shots require you to hold ½ to 1 full mil‑dot lower. If you’re shooting a scope with aim points or mil-dots, this becomes easy. If you’re shooting open sights, you’ll need to develop a feel for it.

The best way to master angle shooting is to practice it deliberately. A drill I use is to set a target at 25–30 yards. Place it 10–15 feet above ground level (tree, hill, or elevated stand). Shoot from below at a steep angle. Note how much lower you must aim to hit center. You can repeat this same exercise shooting downwards and you’ll quickly see how dramatic the difference can be.

Fieldcraft Tips for Real Hunts:  Don’t Over‑Range the Target, If you’re using a rangefinder, remember it gives you slant distance. Your pellet drop is based on horizontal distance, which is always shorter. If the squirrel looks far away but is high up, assume the horizontal distance is shorter than it appears. If you know your 30‑yard zero well, compare the squirrel’s horizontal distance to familiar ground markers. A 25‑yard zero is often more forgiving for angle shooting than a 35‑yard zero, which might be a consideration if you’ll be hunting the deeper woods. Heavier pellets with slower velocities exaggerate the effect and lighter pellets flatten it slightly.

Whether you’re shooting uphill into a towering oak or downhill into a creek bottom, the pellet will strike higher than it would on level ground at the same slant distance. Gravity acts only on the horizontal component of the shot, not on the full line‑of‑sight distance.

Once you understand that, and once you start aiming lower on every slanted shot—you’ll stop missing squirrels that should have been easy. You’ll make cleaner, more confident shots, and you’ll spend a lot less time muttering under your breath in the woods. Angle shooting isn’t complicated. It’s just misunderstood. Master it, and your squirrel‑hunting success rate will jump overnight.

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Is a Chronograph Useful for Airgun Hunting?

Posted on August 4, 2026 by Jim Chapman

A chronograph is one of the most valuable and overlooked tools an airgun hunter can own. Airguns operate in a narrow performance band where small changes in velocity can dramatically affect accuracy, trajectory, and terminal performance. A chronograph gives hunters the hard data needed to keep their rifles at peak performance in the field.

Airguns don’t have the luxury of excess energy. A shift of just 30-40 fps can move your point of impact enough to turn a clean kill into a wounded animal. That’s why understanding a rifle’s true velocity, not the number printed on the box, is essential.
What a chronograph does for a hunter is to help ensure velocity consistency, revealing the extreme spread and standard deviation, the two numbers that determine whether your rifle is predictable. It allows evaluation of a regulator’s health by detecting creeping, dropping, or unstable behavior before accuracy degrades.

A chronograph helps you identify the best rifle-and-ammo combination by showing which pellets or slugs your barrel shoots most consistently. Even projectiles with the same shape and weight can perform very differently from one manufacturer to another. If you need a specific setup for a particular hunting application, chronograph data lets you tune the rifle for optimal performance with that projectile.

My portable shooting bench and the gear I use. Calipers, pellet scales, lazer bore sighter, trigger pull gauge, notebook, bipod, on a portable shooting table. Can take this anywhere to test guns.

Measurements from the chronograph are used to map the trajectory of your rifle-and-ammo combination, turning the output of a ballistic application from guesswork into very accurate metrics by feeding it real velocity data. In essence, this confirms whether adjustments to the hammer spring, transfer port, or regulator actually improved performance.

To put this in practical terms for a hunter, if you are zeroed at 30 yards and your rifle normally shoots an 18‑grain pellet at 880 fps, but the regulator has begun to creep so that the actual velocity is now 840 fps, at 50 yards, that drop can shift your impact by an inch or more. This is the difference between a clean squirrel kill and a wounded animal. A chronograph would have caught the issue before you stepped into the woods.

I don’t think you typically need a chronograph in the field, but having a portable chronograph in your range bag is an absolute necessity if you tune your gun or shoot different projectiles. It is also critical to periodically check your gun, especially when performance starts to shift. Units like the Garmin Xero C1 Pro are compact, Bluetooth-enabled, and capable of live velocity tracking while you shoot groups. For hunters who tune their own rifles, this is transformative. In my experience, this model is the best chronograph I’ve ever used, both in terms of ease of use and accuracy.

This is why I believe a chronograph is an exceedingly important tool for tuning a hunting rifle: it shows what the rifle is actually doing, not what you assume or what the owner’s manual specifications suggest.

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Camouflage for Airgun Hunters

Posted on May 19, 2026 by Jim Chapman

I’ve been asked about wearing camouflage when airgun hunting, and whether it makes a significant difference. Much of the quarry that airgun hunters pursue have well-developed eyesight, such as squirrels and woodchucks. Real-world experience has convinced me that going into the woods in full camouflage for these species greatly improves my success rate. Some years ago, when I started hunting tree squirrels after moving to the Midwest, I found that I’d see squirrels at a distance, but not within shooting range. I’d move slowly, sit and wait, and my results were just OK, but not great. Then one winter, while deer hunting and wearing camo, I noticed that squirrels would sometimes just about run over me. So, after getting my buck that season, I decided to go back out for squirrel, wearing full camo with a face mask and gloves. That was the first time I limited out on these wary rodents. After this, I started to camo up on all my outings and noticed that my game bags were filling up. And with squirrels in particular, I found that wearing camo gloves and a mask consistently upped my success. This makes sense when you think of how much your hands move, uncovered; it’s like you’re waving a flag to warn every critter within eyeshot that you’re stalking them. Much of the time, the hunter is looking up into the trees, and an uncovered face also stands out like a beacon warning of danger.

Camo does give you an edge when hunting quarry with keen eyesight. I’m out for spring squirrel here.

Methods of hunting and the species being pursued will influence the camo/no-camo decision. For instance, when hunting squirrel, crow, turkey, predators, and deer, I usually wear full camo. These animals all see well and are easily spooked. On the other hand, I have not observed that it makes much difference when hunting rabbits, feral hogs, javelina, or prairie dogs. It should be noted that when not wearing camo, my clothing is still muted earth tones (browns, greens, khaki) that somewhat blend with the terrain. Hogs and javelina rely more on their sense of hearing or smell to detect sources of danger, whereas prairie dogs and rabbits seem to focus more on movement and range. So long as you’re not in bright or contrasting colors and moving a lot, you will probably be OK.

A white camo jump suit will make the hunter disappear into the landscape.

Of course, even if you choose not to wear camo, it makes sense to match your clothing to the conditions you’ll be hunting. If I’m going to stalk hogs in the thickets or African plains game in the veld, I’m fine with earth tone colors and wear gloves to protect my hands rather than to hide them. When stalking through the heavy growth, it is noise and smell that will blow the hunt, and playing the wind while using shadows and cover to approach is more important. However, if calling predators, I worry about being spotted as much as being scented, and go full camo.

Some times slipping on a camo hoodie, face make, and gloves is good enough. Covering the hands and face are critical in squirrel hunting.

There are several options for camouflage; most sporting goods stores that carry hunting gear will offer a selection. Pants, a long-sleeved T-shirt, gloves, a face mask, and a hat can be purchased for around $100 in several patterns to suit most terrain. You can spend a fortune on very expensive camo, but honestly, so long as it breaks up your pattern and isn’t a completely different color scheme, it probably doesn’t matter very much. Another option that I quite like (especially for summer/spring hunts) is a 3D camo made from lightweight bug-proof mesh. Besides protecting me from mosquitoes and other entomological nasties, it allows street clothes to be worn on site and the suit slipped over when it’s time to hunt.

So, do I think camo is necessary? Yes and no, it depends on the situation.  In general, there is no downside to wearing camo. In some places that I hunt, I don’t want to be decked out head to toe in camo, as it stands out too much. And if I’m running out for a quick afternoon small game hunt, it’s often more convenient to throw on a camo sweatshirt with hat and gloves. But if a serious hunt for turkey, deer, or predators is on the table, I will most often go the extra mile and suit up in camo.

Of course, another related question is, how important is it to camouflage guns and other gear … but we can save that for another day!

Categories: camo, camo clothing, coyote, crow hunting, Hog hunting, Prairie dogs, Predator hunting, Rabbits, turkey, Uncategorized | Leave a comment